This pop-up in Bengaluru celebrating Isaan cuisine hits all the right notes!

Rim Naam at The Oberoi, Bengaluru, has long occupied a rather dangerous position in our dining life — the kind of place that spoils you so thoroughly that every subsequent Thai meal feels like a compromise. After all, has anyone ever had a disappointing meal here? We certainly haven’t. Yet with chef Tam presiding over the kitchen, pleasant surprises are always guaranteed.

All you need to know about Isaan, the ongoing food pop-up at The Oberoi, Bengaluru

Like our latest visit that came courtesy of Four Hands, Five Nights — a week-long celebration of the bold, unapologetic flavours of Thailand’s Isaan province. Tucked away in the country’s north-east and largely ignored by the average tourist, Isaan is home to some of Thailand’s most authentic cuisine — fiery, rustic and gloriously unbothered by the spice tolerance of unsuspecting visitors. Joining chef Tam was fellow Isaan native chef Klae, who is visiting from Mumbai; and together they presented an aptly named tasting experience: Untamed Klassics of the Thai Kind.

The chefs issued a warning about the spice levels before the meal began. We, displaying remarkable cowardice, promptly requested a medium setting. Spice pride, after all, is overrated. The opening act, Tom Khlong Teen Gai, was perhaps the freshest thing we’ve ever slurped. Fragrant and fiery, the broth came loaded with mushrooms, collagen-rich tender chicken feet and delightful unexpected pieces of coconut meat. It was comfort and excitement in equal measure.

The Hills of Chiang Mai salad that came next transformed the humble morning glory greens into something memorable thanks to a punchy tamarind dressing. But the starters were the true stars of the evening. The stuffed shiitake mushrooms in Thai Woodland Essence were deeply satisfying, while The Emerald Buddha — a delicate dumpling filled with lotus stem and chestnuts — dazzled with its surprising mango and citron sauce and rose apple shavings. The tiny bite-sized quail eggs in Charcoal Grilled Quail Pearls were the sophisticated bar snack we never knew we needed, while Night at Chatuchak placed confit five-spiced pork belly on a savoury pandan waffle and had us questioning why all breakfasts aren’t Thai.

The mains arrived like a greatest hits album. Jai Yen — with its pairing of water spinach and pickled radish, provided balance; before Kaeng Khua — a beautifully braised lamb shank that embodied the soul of Isaan. Ironically, our favourite dish of the lot, Ho Mok Pla — a sublime steamed fish custard — turned out to be a Bangkok speciality. The wok-tossed prawns in Gong Pad Pong Curry; the silky rice noodles in Kuay Tiao; and the wonderfully named Forbidden Kingdom of Thailand, a spicy black rice stir-fry with mushrooms and basil — completed a line-up that refused to put a foot wrong.

Dessert arrived in the form of Talk Thai to Me, a delightful Thai rice pudding with pandan gelée, tapioca crunch and juicy mango. By then, resistance was futile. Once again, Rim Naam had reminded us why it remains one of Bengaluru’s most dependable addresses for a spectacular meal — and why we keep returning, appetites at the ready.

Meal for two: INR 3,500 onwards. Only for dinner. On till June 21, 7 pm onwards. At MG Road.

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