Old is gold: Park Street's iconic Kwality restaurant turns 70

Kolkata is known for its biryanis, kathi rolls and mishti, along with the cutlets and ala-kievs from the heritage restaurants, mostly located in the Park Street area. And Kwality is definitely one of them. Announced as a heritage restaurant by the Indian Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage, the diner turned 70 this year and we couldn’t help but revisit the place to have a taste of nostalgia.

The moment you walk into this restaurant, you will immediately be engulfed with an old-world charm that not just Kwality but the whole of Kolkata boasts of. The demand for their Spicy Pindi Chana or Chole Bhature is going strong even after so many years. Started in 1952 as a cosy tearoom serving hot beverages and tit-bits, the place now serves home-style North Indian and continental food that connoisseurs come back to savour with their friends and family.

The chain of restaurants, originally started by PN Ghai, is now run by Rajiv Ghai, the former’s nephew, who too makes it a point to build a strong relationship with the patrons coming here for generations. Commendably, Kwality happens to be among the few old diners who have retained the same menu without yielding to ever-changing food trends. While the older lot come here to relive the times spent here, the younger ones come to experience the legacy and charm of this Park Street favourite. “As of now, we have no plans to change our menu as it has something catering to all palates. We source our spices from Delhi to get the authentic flavour notes for which people keep coming back,” explains Rajiv Ghai.

We had to try their dry and masaledar Pindi Chana and now we know why it is a favourite. We decided to also try out their specialities including a few classic continental dishes. Their good ol’ Grilled Fish and flavourful Chicken Cutlets, both served with sides of grilled veggies, peas and potatoes remain consistent in their texture and flavour. Next, we tasted Chicken Ala Kiev, which has oozing butter hidden under the crusty coverage. This too was served with grilled veggies, peas and mashed potatoes. And one shouldn’t miss their Mutton Biryani —a rich and flavourful delicacy topped with caramelised onion. You can end your meal as we did with the ever-popular Tutti Frutti, loaded with scoops of strawberry and vanilla ice cream, diced fruits and dry fruits. Some things never get old, they only get better and Kwality definitely counts among them.

Meal for 2: Rs 1,100+