From ajwani bhetki to lamb chops, this new Kolkata restaurant makes a strong case for modern Bengali food

Among the endless stream of restaurant launches in Kolkata, choice is abundant but discernment is not. New menus arrive weekly, concepts sound promising, yet only a handful truly earn repeat visits. Shorshe, the newly unveiled restaurant at Hotel De Sovrani, has the potential to be one of those rare, choicest addresses.

Modern Bengali plates, bold grills, and a rasgulla tiramisu surprise

Instead of leaning heavily on nostalgia, Shorshe puts in the work to modernise how Bengali food is experienced today. As director Kamalini Paul puts it, “While everything around us is rapidly modernising, Bengali food often remains confined to a nostalgic, traditional lens. Yet Bengal itself is progressive, expressive and deeply empowering.”

Some dishes stand out because they dare to shift familiar narratives. The Ajwani grilled bhetki with chokha and spicy coriander sauce is a clear favourite. Ajwain on bhetki is unexpected, yet it works beautifully. 

The grilled lamb chops on zucchini layonnaise and creamy mash delivered generous flavour and comfort. It was bold, rich and well-executed, so this dish easily became the most indulgent bite of the meal. The harissa crusted pork skewer is a safe but satisfying choice. The meat is tender and well-seasoned, ideal for pork lovers who prefer familiar flavours done right. In comparison, the mutton kakori kebab is pleasant, but was slightly overshadowed by the other confident dishes on the table.

The vegetarian offerings held surprising strength. The Parmesan and chilli stuffed dahi kebab was crisp on the outside with a creamy, flavour-forward centre. The avocado and mushroom fricassee bruschetta leaned indulgent yet comforting, without cloying our senses.

The dessert brought playfulness with the rasgulla tiramisu. The idea is lovely, but we think a lighter hand with the syrup would allow the mascarpone to blend more seamlessly with the rasgulla. The spiced crimson cooler and vanilla cloud fizz pair well with the food, refreshing and thoughtfully composed.

Where: DD-21, DD Block, Sector 1

Meal for two: INR 1200

Timings: 7.30 am to 11 pm

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