Three renowned city-based chefs regale us with their memories of Bonalu

As the rain gods shower the city with ample rains after what seemed like a long and gruesome summer, Hyderabad readies itself for one of the biggest festivals celebrated in the city. Bonalu is celebrated over a few Sundays, starting from the oldest Mahakali temple situated in Golconda, proceeding to the other parts of town. The festival gets its name from Bonam, a Telugu word that translates to meal. Many monsoons ago in 1813, millions of city dwellers were affected by a deadly plague, leading to worshippers praying to the deity and promising her that an idol would be installed in her name. The plague was driven away, forging a bond between the goddess Mahakali and her staunch worshippers, keeping the legacy alive for centuries. Since the first Bonalu to this day, scores of devotees prepare the food offering, place it in a decorated earthen pot and carry it on their heads to the temple as a gratitude offering to the goddess Mahakali. We speak to three renowned chefs in the city who have a close connection to the festival of Bonalu, who will be upholding the traditions this year as well.

Celebrations galore

Bonalu is a happy time for our family. The festivities begin at least a few days in advance, where everyone is busy procuring produce, earthen pots and many other things required for the Bonam and the special Bonalu meal. Our day starts with cleaning the house thoroughly before the ‘offering meal’ is prepared. We decorate the pots with turmeric and neem leaves and offer it to the goddess first thing in the morning. Once back home, the whole day is filled with happy songs and dance, and lip-smacking delicacies like Kaleji, Boti Fry and several others.

— Chef Govind Kedavath, Voila

Feast day

The naivedyam or offering food we put inside the Bonam is specially prepared by the women in our family. Delicacies like Naatu Kodi Kura, Panakam, Boorelu, Pulihora, Chepala Pulusu are all delicacies cooked in our household on the festive day.

— Chef Kailash Gundupalli, Director of Culinary, Novotel Hyderabad Convention Centre & HIC

Childhood memories

Bonalu is one of the biggest festivals celebrated at home. I have travelled to over 14 countries for leisure and work, but always ensure to come back to Hyderabad in time for the festivities. Bonalu is a tradition that has been running for three generations in our family. As a teen, I remember starting my cooking journey by cooking delicacies on this day. Dishes like Talakaya Kura, Boti, mutton curry with Bagara Rice are staples for lunch along with Toddy after visiting the temple.

— Chef Sukesh Kale, Executive Chef, Lake District Bar and Kitchen