Diwali just went by, but most of us are still in a festive mood. If you’re looking for occasions to spend more time with friends and family, then we take you to the celebrated Indian specialty restaurant of Hyderabad Marriott and Convention Centre, Bidri. Previously, food connoisseurs have penned poetry in praise of the dine-in's dishes from the princely states of Hyderabad, Lucknow and Kashmir. But we were there to try culinary gems from their new menu based on Awadhi cuisine.
The specialities were prepared by Chef Amil Qureshi who’s in touch with khansamas (cooks) from Lucknow. He tells us about the new dishes, “We have included royal starters like the Kalpasi Paneer Tikka. Kalpasi is a type of spice mix in Awadhi and called Patthar Ke Phool in Hyderabad where cubes of cottage cheese are marinated in this masala (spice) and then grilled. You can also try our Veg Galawat made with mushroom and jimikand and its non-veg counterpart made with mutton. Palak Chilgoze ke Kebab is another new entrant to the menu where blanched spinach is finely chopped with shahi jeera (royal cumin), chillies, chopped ginger and then roasted with ghee and pine nuts before being binded.”
With that, we knew we awaited a royal fare in this 70-seater cosy restaurant that exudes opulence in every nook and taste. From the dim-lit lanterns offering a warm glow to framed artworks on walls and classical tunes of Hindustani music whisking the visitors to a timeless era, we were in for a sensorial experience. To the tune of music, came two soup plates — Tomato Shorba and the city’s favourite Hyderabadi Marag.
While the former was tangy with roasted tomato at its core, the latter had a more in-depth flavour profile with roasted mutton mixed with nuttiness of almonds and mildly spiced with ginger, mint and seasoning. The hot appetisers served on a winter evening enveloped us in warmth, preparing to start with Veg Galawat. Meat lovers won’t miss non-veg as the blend of mushroom and elephant yam revealed surprising flavours: sweet taste of jimikand met umami notes of mushroom. A mix of poppy root, betel root and long pepper added to a confluence of aroma and earthy taste.
Chef Amil tells us that he added papaya paste to make the kebab more tender and receptive to a melange of flavours of its ingredients. It was served with Ulte Tawe ka Paratha where thin sheets of dough were baked with pronounced aromatic flavours of rose water, kewra water and cinnamon. Next came Hyderabad’s much loved Nihari. This Lucknowi dish was originally a high-energy breakfast for the working class but the Nawabs of Awadh relished it so much that it became a royal food, travelling from Dastarkhwan-e-Aam to Dastarkhawan-e-Khaas.
We know why as we savoured its rich taste with Chef ’s signature Ajwaini Warqi Parantha that was softer and more flavourful than its usual counterpart Naan. Later, Haleem emerged as a must-try sensation. This meticulously slow-cooked dish unfolded a rich symphony with grainy taste of lentils, succulent meat and spicy notes. A captivating finale awaited in the dessert section with the Rose Kulfi Falooda.
This fusion of creamy kulfi blended with rose petals and saffron, offered a regal indulgence that overpowered the sweetness of Khubani ka Meetha and Khajoor Badam Halwa, each celebrating fruity and nutty nuances. These culinary treasures transported us to an era when culinary talents were revered and recipes were passed down from one generation to another with gusto.
Rs. 3,500 for two. At Secunderabad.
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