Makau Bar & Kitchen’s new menu revises Hawaii in a Hyderabadi turn-around

There is a scent of openness at Makau Bar & Kitchen. This week, we were looking for a feast of meaty, salty, creamy, sweet and starchy dishes. We wanted our spoon and fork to travel — put some mayo on our spoons, then a bite of Mongolian Crispy Tofu, pomfret, and eat. Bengalis love fish but for some, it is an acquired taste. Makau’s new menu, Hawaiian Vibe was all about bringing out the soul of ‘Malama,’ — to care for. What is the Hawaiian way of life?

In ancient cultures, it refers to seeing into someone and breathing together. But more than anything else, it means love. No matter how the word is used, it always comes from a place of compassion. And, what is compassion without food? Non-veg appetisers included Chicken Murtabak, Tandoori Pomfret and Karavapeku Chicken Tikka. We felt minced garlic, lemon pepper, ginger, alae salt, chives and crushed red chillies. The menu had a pulse of Hawaii while also lending it a Hyderabadi twist. The Potato Skin, Thai Red Curry and Steam Fish Steak were prepared to convey a wide array of cultural roots — a sense of belonging in Hawaii — the kind of cooking that anyone raised in the islands and in Hyderabad would describe as ‘local food.’

This November, Makau observes its second anniversary. We were amply lucky that the new menu presented a chicken that was steamed, then fried and sprinkled with a powder — flavoured as sinigang — the sour Filipino stew. Hyderabadis admire a spin on local cuisines. It is also contesting to define ‘local food’ but in a month, as Makau understood to welcome the other, its food became a fusion. Even a simple mocktail like Blue Lagoon used coconut puree and litchi juice. The desserts we tried were Tres Leches and Tiramisu — what we grew up with, what is around us. Makau aimed to mesh bits and pieces of Hawaii and Hyderabad — the latter only saw room for both cuisines to grow together.

`1,500 for two. At Madhapur. 
 chokita@newindianexpress.com
 @PaulChokita