For a city that relishes non-vegetarian dishes, the quest for an exceptional vegetarian restaurant often becomes a challenging odyssey. However, our journey ended at Ishtaa, a South Indian dine-in that resoundingly showcases the vegetarian epicurean dishes from Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka. Our sojourn led us to Ishtaa’s newly established Basheerbagh branch which is a rendezvous of home-style authentic dishes from the South as well as North India, tandoor offerings, Chinese specialities and more.
We entered through its intricately carved pine green door that introduced us to festal interiors. Dimly lit suspended lanterns extended a warm invitation, while the window blinds embellished with evocative folk art of coastal idylls narrated the farm-to-plate philosophy of the restaurant. Vivid Kathakali masks adorned the grey textured walls while wooden partitions featuring deities in lyrical poses added a traditional allure to the ambience. We perched in the centre of this 100-seater restaurant and refreshed ourselves with Badam Milk, ensconced in an earthen cup. Its decadent sweet milk concoction suffused our palate with a surge of pleasure. Subsequently, the unveiling of Potlam Parotta encased in the verdant embrace of a banana leaf, offered a gustatory crescendo of complexity. Within its layers, a melange of finely chopped vegetables, enrobed in a cashew paste, coalesced into a symphony of rich flavours.
Besides authentic dishes, Ishtaa is also known for fusion dosa varieties like Ice Cream, Mix Fruit Jam, Spring Roll, Teddy, Noodles and more. We opted for the Lays Dosa where crushed chips conspired within the delicate folds of the dosa. It was a daunting reimagination where traditions meet the likings of the modern palate. In recognition of Hyderabad's eclectic tapestry of palates, the menu also unfurls North Indian marvels such as thalis, pooris, tikkas and pulaos. We went for a plate of Chole Bhature, a Punjabi breakfast dish. The gently spiced curry and the fried bhatura were in sumptuous synchronicity and drew us to have more morsels of it until we finished. After a filling meal, we wanted to try a lighter-homely dish and went for the Mango Pappu (dal) with Rice and papad glazed with a generous drizzle of ghee. The art of Kamayan came alive as we ate with our hands paying homage to bygone times when each grain mattered and even the humblest repast was an act of reverence.
In the finale, we advanced towards the dessert section that had South Indian classics like Basundi and Junnu as well as North Indian darlings like Gulab Jamun. Our choice was the Andhra delight Kova Bobbatlu. Its dough layer encased the nutty undertones of dry fruits, the sweetness of jaggery and creamy kova redolent of melt-in-mouth milky flavour. This final opus culminated on a thoughtful note-- how we live in a time where humble indigenous dishes have become heritage now.
Rs. 1,000 for two. At Basheerbagh.
Mail: priyamvada@newindianexpress.com
Twitter: @ranapriyamvada