Shiso Café is a place of potential that seems to be still finding its footing. While some dishes showcase the culinary prowess and creativity at play, others feel like tentative steps towards a fusion that has yet to be fully realised. We left the eatery appreciative of its highs but all too aware of its lows, hopeful for what its future iterations might bring to the ever-evolving landscape of Madhapur’s dining scene.
To start with, we were intrigued by its promise of fusion between Pan-Asian and Continental cuisines. Our culinary journey was a pile of hits and misses that left us contemplating the delicate balance between ambition and execution in the culinary world.
The Iced Mocha struck a commendable offset between the bitterness of coffee and the richness of chocolate, though it hardly ventured beyond the conventional. The Biscoff Latte, while an imaginative idea, succumbed to an overbearing sweetness that overshadowed the nuanced flavours one might expect from such a fusion.
The appetisers presented a mixed bag. The Coriander Chicken was a revelation — tender meat embraced by a fragrant coriander-infused spice blend that was both gutsy and flowing. The Butter Garlic Prawns, however, fell into the trap of monotony, with neither the garlic nor the butter elevating the dish beyond the ordinary. The Veg Lotus Stem, with its crispy texture and sweet-spicy glaze, stood out as a delightful surprise, offering a compelling reason to return.
Dessert was where we found ourselves at a crossroads. The Tres Leches and Tiramisu, while executed with a certain level of proficiency, lacked the innovation we hoped to find in such a fusioncentric establishment.
Both desserts, though competent, did not stray far from the traditional path, leaving us yearning for a twist that never came. The Green Chilli Guava drink was perhaps the most polarising item we encountered. Its sparkling blend of sweet guava and the piercing green chilli proved that café harbours the potential for innovation, offering a refreshing albeit unconventional end to our meal.
`800 upwards for two. At Madhapur.
chokita@newindianexpress.com @PaulChokita