Explore the best of Modern Indian cuisine at this gourmet restaurant in Begumpet

Modern Indian cuisine has taken the culinary world by storm at restaurants across the globe. Be it fusing European techniques with Indian flavours, or showcasing street food in a gourmet setting, the permutations and combinations of the cuisine are truly endless. This week, we discovered one such underrated spot in Hyderabad that is making strides by serving epicurean feasts while catering to the local palate.

Once Upon a Time at Hotel Green Park is understated in its appearance. While the restaurant has been around for decades, it has recently completed five years serving Modern Indian delicacies. Marking the anniversary, the team has recently launched their revamped menu, featuring signature dishes patrons have popularised over the years.

Completely done up in hues of black and grey with hints of brass, gold and copper peeking through, the eatery let the food take the centre stage throughout the meal. We noticed some beautiful wall décor imitating traditional mortar and pestle grinders, hand-carved with designs of the rangoli.

We started with a bowl of Paya shorba with Sheermal croutons. The thick, flavourful broth was an absolute star of a dish to begin our meal. The Chettinad fish mousse was served alongside a slice of toast spiced with curry leaves. When eaten together, the familiar flavours quickly brought us back to our roots. For our vegetarian friends, we’d recommend the Paneer makhni donut as a must-try dish. Served European café style, we cut open the deep-fried paneer cutlet to reveal a soft, creamy stuffing, which we dipped in the makhni gravy for the perfect bite of crispy exteriors blended with luscious, creamy flavours.

“We wish to showcase new dishes taking inspiration from the classics , and lesser known dishes from across the length and breadth of India on our revamped menu,” says Vignesh Ramachandran, chef partner at Once Upon a Time. After a quick palate cleanser of an Orange lassi sorbet, we moved onto the mains of which the Pan roasted scallop moilee served with adorable mini appams stood out. The gravy instantly reminded us of coconut milk-based curries from the coast of Kerala.

The supremely tender Saag meat featured a Saag keema, served with a lamb shank that had the meat falling off the bone. Coupled with naans, the dish showcased the best of North Indian cuisine on a platter.

The Roti bomb, inspired by the street food commonly found in South East Asian countries, was every bit indulgent. Stuffed with Dulce de leche and caramelised bananas in a crispy flaky roti, it’s what our dessert dreams are made of.

Rs 3,900 for two. At Begumpet.