Anumula Babu Rao, the chai master of Hyderabad

He moves briskly through his café, his keen eyes ensuring every thing is to a tee. After all, he is the man behind Hyderabad’s iconic tea — Niloufer chai. To rest is a rarity for him; fuelled by passion, he sleeps just four hours a night. With outlets of Cafe Niloufer in Lakdikapul, Banjara Hills, Himayatnagar, Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, and now Hitec City, his journey is one of sheer determination, skill, and love for his craft. As CE sips on heavenly Irani Chai with Bun Maska and Osmania Biscuits, he takes us down memory lane, reveals the sacrifice his father made for him, what it takes to run a business, and more.

Excerpts

How do you feel after opening your newest Cafe Niloufer in Hitec City?

I have opened my newest cafe in a prime location and people are showing a lot of love — I feel absolutely wonderful!

What makes Cafe Niloufer special?

For me, the customer is God. When we offer prasad to God, don’t we always make sure that nothing is lacking? Similarly, when you all come to Niloufer, I ensure that you get what you want and the quality will be top-notch, regardless of the fluctuation in prices.

Secondly, the chai is excellent at every Cafe Niloufer in the city, but what sets us apart is the hassle-free parking. Whether you have a big or small vehicle, we make sure you are comfortable and have a good experience inside without worrying about your car’s safety.

Born in a little village in Adilabad district, you’ve had humble beginnings. Can you tell our readers how your childhood was?

I grew up in a small village with just about 50 houses and no school. Though my father wanted me to be educated, he couldn’t afford to send me to school. My uncle, who lived in a village in Maharashtra, supported me until sixth grade, but struggled to continue helping me beyond that.

You see, even today, not everyone can afford education…if you want high-quality education, you need to spend a lot of money.

At the time, I was in Chandrapur, and went to a hostel which provided food to around 100 people at a low cost. Among this lot, they were kind enough to offer free food to five poor people — one of whom was me. I had food, but still needed money, so I worked at a clothing shop. When I needed ₹100 for 10th standard textbooks, my father sold our cow — a major sacrifice. During an emotional conversation, he told me something I’ve never forgotten: ‘When you become an accomplished man, help the poor.’

You first came to Hyderabad in 1975. What did you encounter in this new city and where did it lead you to?

As I grew older, I realised that opportunities back home were sparse, and so, I came to Hyderabad in search of greener pastures. I worked as a salesman at a textile store, sleeping on the store’s verandah at night and using the railway station’s facilities for bathing. Then someone suggested that I work at a hotel, the perks would be free food and a place to stay.

After a stint at a small hotel, I joined the hotel which would one day be the Cafe Niloufer you all know today. Here, I worked as a waiter, manned the counter, and slowly learned the ropes. At one point, the place was running into losses, and the owners asked me, ‘What do we do?’ I simply said, ‘Leave it to me.’ Thereafter, I did everything — made pooris, chai, manned the counter, strategised…you name it. In a year, I had saved their business. They were pleased, and told me they would like to sell it. I said I’d like to buy it!

After my son did his MBA, he joined the business. But often jokingly tells others that it is hard to work with me, as I work for 20 hours and sleep only for four!

What is your advice to those who want to become successful businesspeople?

My first advice is this: With any business, make sure you are well prepared to deal with heavy losses in the first year or so. In the hospitality space, this can mean running another business simultaneously in order to pay salaries. What’s the point running it for two months and then having to shut it down?

Secondly, always ensure the food you serve is worth your customer’s money — top quality. At Niloufer, the chai is consistently good on all 365 days. People are creatures of habit with things like paan, cigarettes, and chai. If they like it from a particular place, they’ll stick to it. I chose to focus on chai — I wanted Niloufer to be the place people preferred.

Finally, the customer is God.

What are your favourites on the menu?

The customer’s favourites are my favourites! (laughs)

Do you have any plans to take Cafe Niloufer to other cities or countries?

You see, I run my business very differently, always interacting with my customers. I am not one to sit in my office quietly. So, though I can take Cafe Niloufer to other places, I won’t.

Your tea is famous, but you also sell tea leaves. Can you tell us about this?

During Covid, when people couldn’t visit restaurants and cafes, I wanted them to remember the taste of authentic Niloufer chai. So, I launched Niloufer Supreme Tea Powder. Its quality ensures a great chai, whether you add less or more milk. One sip, and you’ll be energised!

For over 20 years, you have been arranging meals every day for patients and attenders at MNJ Institute of Oncology and Regional Cancer Centre and Niloufer Hospital. What thought propelled you to take up this selfless work?

My heart sank when I saw the plight of patients, especially those who have cancer. While the government provides meals for patients, their attendants — mostly family members — are left out. For 27 years, I have been providing them with meals, simply keeping the promise I made to my father: to help the poor once I became accomplished.

(Story by Nitika Krishna)