This new Telugu restaurant in Hyderabad presents favourites in a gourmet avatar

Ever had (or been) a fussy eater at home, and watched a boring vegetable transform into the most delicious recipe in the hands of your mom or grandma? That’s the vibe behind this new spot in town.

Theta Theta Telugu: A stylish homage to classic Telugu cuisine in Hyderabad

Theta Theta Telugu (named after an iconic yesteryear track) is an homage to Telugu cuisine, presented in a stylish new format. Laterite bricks overlooking the space, black flooring made interesting with brass inlay motifs, and a huge mural of a jasmine flower-wearing woman adorn the space, making it inviting from the word go.

We settled in on a cold December night, to meet our amuse bouche — a hearty clarified tomato rasam served with fried curry leaves and crunchy vadiyalu. The warm broth did its trick of warming us up for the meal to follow. A host of appetisers began to appear next, starting with the Chintapandu ghee prawns served with Garlic curry leaf brioche. Bread lovers as we are, we tore into the soft brioche first, soaking it in the prawn gravy laden with ghee. The flavours were on point, with the chilli and tangy tamarind taking over the flavours.

Those who appreciate their upma are well aware that the best part of the dish is the crispy layer that gets stuck on the pan once you’ve made it. The Grilled ghee upma with tomato pachadi takes this experience to the next level, serving up grilled cutlet-like bites of upma, crisped on either side and served with a tangy tomato chutney.

Next came the Muddapappu hummus with Kalamata uragaya — this dish is what would happen if you were to present olives to an ammamma. The hummus is made from a Telugu household staple — muddapappu sans any chickpeas. Replicating the exact taste and texture profile expertly, this was a pleasant surprise. The Kalamata olives, pickled like a traditional Telugu-style avakaya, had a bold, spicy zing to them in every bite. The Mutton dum pulao at the restaurant is unmissable; cooked alongside herbs like pudina and coriander that render the rich, spice and meat-heavy dish a fresh flavour in every morsel.

The Kobbari paalu annam is another staple, especially at Telugu festivities. Paired with a rich Naatukodi koora, it took us straight to a Telugu wedding in the heartland. It would be criminal to leave the restaurant without trying a couple of their desserts. Our pick? The Kobbari rasmalai that comes with rich sweetened coconut milk, tender coconut flesh, coconut jelly and a brown butter coconut powder. The incredible mix of textures presenting coconut in its various versatile forms simply sent us into a tizzy.

₹2,000 for two. At Jubilee Hills

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