
Centuries of fusion have shaped the culinary landscape, and the blending of flavours between Italy and Japan is no exception. In a delightful twist on the classic Italian Wedding Soup, Sonoko Sakai introduces her take, which marries the best of both worlds. Her approach is deeply rooted in Japanese culinary tradition, where adapting and incorporating outside influences have long been celebrated.
For Sakai, a Japanese-American cooking instructor and author of Wafu Cooking, the fusion of Japanese and Western dishes has always been a natural process. Her mother’s subtle incorporation of miso into lasagna wasn’t about following a trend; it was about using familiar ingredients to enhance the flavours. This approach mirrors Japan’s history of adapting foreign influences to suit local tastes. For example, tonkatsu, a crispy pork cutlet, was inspired by French cooking when Western chefs arrived during the Meiji period, and curry found its way into Japan when the English brought spice mixes from India.
In her new book, Sakai delves into the concept of wafu, which refers to “Japanese in style.” The term isn’t limited to the combination of Japanese and Western ingredients but also applies to how dishes are presented and adjusted to suit Japanese sensibilities. For instance, tonkatsu was “wafued” by being served in bite-sized pieces with shredded cabbage, adding a delicate balance to the dish’s richness.
Sakai’s Japanese Italian wedding soup is a perfect example of this fusion. She has reimagined a traditional Italian recipe by infusing it with Japanese flavours. The pork meatballs, made with potato starch instead of egg as a binder, resemble gyoza fillings, another popular Japanese dish. By adding miso, sake, soy sauce, and ginger, Sakai introduces a new dimension to the soup while preserving its comforting heartiness.
“My approach isn’t about reinventing recipes,” Sakai explains. “It’s about enhancing flavours with the ingredients I have. Sometimes all it takes is a little splash of something different.” This philosophy is deeply rooted in the Japanese tradition of kakushiaji—“secret flavours”—where subtle ingredients like sake, soy sauce, or miso are added to elevate dishes without overwhelming the original taste.
The Japanese Italian wedding soup brings together the hearty flavours of pork meatballs, tender escarole, and pasta, with a light umami undertone courtesy of Japanese ingredients. Sakai’s version of the soup is more than a dish; it’s a fusion that pays homage to both her Italian and Japanese heritage.
For the Meatballs:
1 lb ground pork
1 yellow onion, grated
1 garlic clove, minced
1 egg
1 tbsp sake or white wine
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp potato starch (or cornstarch), diluted in 2 tbsp water
½ tsp sea salt
¼ tsp freshly ground pepper
¼ cup minced fresh parsley
1½ tsp oregano
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
For the Soup:
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
½ yellow onion, diced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 large carrot, peeled and diced
8 cups chicken broth
¼ cup sake
1 tbsp soy sauce
½ head escarole, coarsely chopped
½ cup acini de pepe or other small pasta (such as orzo)
1 tsp lemon zest
Grated Parmesan cheese (for serving)
Crusty bread (optional)
Preheat the oven to 425°F (218°C).
Make the meatballs: In a medium bowl, combine the ground pork, grated onion, minced garlic, egg, sake, soy sauce, diluted starch, sea salt, pepper, parsley, oregano, and Parmesan cheese. Mix gently until just combined. Form the mixture into 1-tablespoon-sized meatballs and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet.
Bake the meatballs for 20 minutes, or until lightly browned and nearly cooked through.
Prepare the soup: In a large pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add the diced onion and minced garlic, sautéing until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the diced carrots and cook for another 2–3 minutes.
Pour in the chicken broth, sake, and soy sauce. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer.
Add the meatballs to the pot, one at a time, and simmer for 5–7 minutes until fully cooked. Stir in the chopped escarole and simmer for an additional 10 minutes.
Cook the pasta: In a separate pot, bring salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain and rinse under cold water. Set aside.
Finish the soup: Just before serving, add the cooked pasta to the soup. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon zest.
Serve with grated Parmesan and crusty bread, if desired.
In this soup, Sakai not only blends two culinary traditions but also invites home cooks to explore the endless possibilities of fusion, all while celebrating the flavours that define her heritage.