This weekend, explore authentic Bhatkal cuisine in Bengaluru

A small coastal town tucked away in Uttara Kannada, Bhatkal is an intriguing confluence of the culinary cultures from Konkan and the Middle-East
Bhatkal Mutton Biryani
Bhatkal Mutton Biryani

There’s something about digging into home-cooked food in the monsoons – rain lashing down outside while you have a hot and wholesome meal in the company of your loved ones. Taking cues, JW Marriott Hotel Bengaluru has tied up with home-chef Fathima Riyaz and Chef Pin (a platform from which one can order food from home-chefs) to introduce diners to the forgotten flavours of the Bhatkal cuisine.

A small coastal town tucked away in Uttara Kannada, Bhatkal is an intriguing confluence of the culinary cultures from the Konkan region and the Middle-East. It is influenced by Konkan cuisine because of its geographical proximity to the coast. And historically, Bhatkal had one of the major ports on the Arabian sea and saw a lot of traders from Iran and Yemen migrate there – eventually influencing the Bhatkal cuisine.

We visited the JW Marriott Kitchen on a breezy Wednesday evening, when the city had the ideal weather for us to explore this cuisine. We started our meal with the Lonmeri Tawa-fried Prawns, Lonmeri Tawa-fried Fish, and Baked Beef. The byadgi chilli-marinated prawns had hints of garlic and fenugreek seeds, and were succulent from the inside. It had a crunchy exterior, thanks to the addition of rava (semolina). While the Lonmeri Tawa-fried Fish was cooked with the same spice, it did not come with a semolina coating. Equally delectable, the fish had been complemented well with the piquant dry chilli. The Baked Beef was tender, moist, and had a spice level that is enjoyable; it was not the kind of spicy that makes you reach for water. 

Chicken Crepe Roll (<em>Appa Gudiyo</em>)
Chicken Crepe Roll (Appa Gudiyo)

Next, we were served the Chicken Crepe Roll (Appa Gudiyo) and the Haldi Paanaa Nouri. The thin bread of the Chicken Crepe Roll was so soft that as soon as we put it in our mouth, it melted away, making way for the sumptuous filling inside. The filling was made of shredded chicken tossed in coconut and onions, two ingredients central to the Bhatkal cuisine. Reminiscent of the classic Kerala delicacy Ada, Haldi Paanaa Nouri is a rice-flour encasing filled with fried, shredded chicken and steamed in turmeric leaves! With very strong notes of turmeric, it had the perfect meat-bread ratio and tasted best when hot. It is a seasonal delicacy in Bhatkal and is mostly enjoyed during the monsoons. The best thing about these two starters is that they held back on the flavours a little and were light on the stomach – making them perfect as appetisers.

Bhatkal Mutton Biryani
Bhatkal Mutton Biryani
Bhatkal <em>Semiya</em> (Vermicelli) Chicken Biryani
Bhatkal Semiya (Vermicelli) Chicken Biryani

Then, we moved on to the main course, which consisted of the Bhatkal Shayya (Vermicelli) Chicken Biryani, Bhatkal Mutton Biryani, and the Bhatkal Chicken Khichdi. The two most prominent flavours of the Bhatkal cuisine are sweetness and spiciness. And both these flavours came out beautifully in the biryanis. The Bhatkal Mutton Biryani was different from all the other biryanis we have had so far, in the way that instead of being savoury, they were primarily sweet because of the caramelised onions added to them. Interestingly, this helps you identify and appreciate the notes of the spice very well. The Bhatkal Shayya Chicken Biryani was a surprise. If you are under the impression that the vermicelli biryani would become soggy in some time, then you would be wrong. This vermicelli is made of rava (semolina) and not wheat flour, which is why it does not stick, even when cold. The chicken was cooked to perfection and its meaty texture complemented the soft vermicelli perfectly.

Bhatkal Chicken <em>Khichdi</em>
Bhatkal Chicken Khichdi

Just when we thought we had already had the best dish in the lineup, we were served the Bhatkal Chicken Khichdi – and we knew this would become our favourite. The dish is basically Basmati (long-grain) rice and chickpea lentils mixed with pre-cooked curried chicken and cooked together in coconut milk. As a result, a mouthful of this khichdi was like a burst of flavours with complementing textures. The dish derived its creamy texture and sweetness from the coconut milk, and its meaty texture and savouriness from the gravied chicken. With a thick consistency that might remind you of coconut milk risotto, this dish felt like the warm embrace of a quilt on a wintry night. 

Next up was the one-pot meal called Mutkule. With tiny rice balls and prawn (curried before) — cooked in a gravy of coconut milk, grated cashew nuts, and green chillies — this sumptuous dish really stood out. The blend of the creamy coconut milk with notes of herbs like coriander leaves and mint made the flavour playful and light on the stomach.

The wholesome meal ended on a sweet note with the Shayya Gora. The dish is, basically, vermicelli and boiled chickpea lentils cooked in coconut milk, cooled, and topped with sliced pistachio and dried petals. The dessert was not too sugary, thanks to the additon of the chickpea lentils. The elaborate dinner could not have had a more fitting end.


The special menu is available for dinner this Friday and Saturday, and for brunch on Sunday. 

₹ 2,150 ++ per person. Till September 11. At JW Kitchen, Vittal Mallya Road. Details: 8884494037

Related Stories

No stories found.
Indulgexpress
www.indulgexpress.com