Rediscover West Bengal’s heritage with this newly opened restaurant’s innovative take on classic cuisine
We headed to Usha on a sunny winter afternoon, the kind where crisp air whets your appetite and makes you crave comforting flavours. Tucked away in a cosy two-storey space in the bylanes of Lake Terrace, the restaurant greeted us with its warm and inviting ambience. With seating capacity of 62, the restaurant exudes an intimate charm, setting the perfect stage for an unforgettable culinary journey. Jayanta Chatterjee, along with co-owner Jay Ghosh, has set out to revive lost recipes and heirloom dishes, reinterpreted with a contemporary twist. Named after co-owner Jayanta Chatterjee’s grandmother, Usha is a tribute to Bengal’s rich cuisine. The menu at Usha brings together dishes that beautifully balance tradition and creativity.
Among the starters, the Keemar doi bora was a delightful surprise. These small keema cutlets, topped with a bit of yogurt and pineapple concentrate offering a tangy-sweet twist that elevated the flavours.
Another highlight was the Makhon morich kakra with Kurkure kolmi, a unique take on crab. While breaking crab claws in public is often seen as a hassle and deters many diners, this dish is one you simply cannot miss. The creamy pepper sauce complemented the crispy water spinach fritters, making each bite a delightful surprise.
Moving onto the mains, Neelkontho polao and Ada mouri diye mangso were the stars of the afternoon. The polao with its subtle blue hue, thanks to the use of blue pea flowers, was a feast for the senses, while the mutton dish won hearts with its tender meat infused with the warmth of ginger and fennel seeds. Unlike many meat-based dishes, this one felt light and comforting, leaving us satiated.
To round off the meal, the dessert brought a harmonious ending to the experience. The Shorbhaja with Bandel ice cream was a revelation. The crispy layers of the traditional shorbhaja paired beautifully with the smokey, salty-sweet Bandel cheese ice cream, embodying the peak of innovation and Bengali culinary artistry.
The restaurant’s menu offers a premium yet accessible dining experience. Open daily for lunch and dinner, it’s an invitation to rediscover Bengal’s timeless flavours in a contemporary setting.
Meal for two: INR 1,000 ++
Timings: 12 pm to 4 pm and 7 pm to 11 pm
Location: At 14b, Anil Roy Road, Hemanta Mukherjee Sarani, Lake Terrace, Ballygunge.
Pictures: Pritam Sarkar