In a world that is always on the go, Bhutan is rooted in its steady calmness. It’s a sanctuary of warmth, filled with happy locals decked in traditional outfits like Gho and Kira. The surrounding snow-capped mountains dotted with prayer flags, the indigenous fiery chillies, the locally made peach wines, and dishes made with homemade cheeses -- all these and more make Bhutan a unique place offering a mix of the modern and the traditional. We got a feel of that the moment we got out of our plane for a brief stay at two of their picturesque locales -- Thimphu and Punakha.
Located in the eastern ridges of the Himalayas, our first stop was the newly-opened experiential property, Pemako Punakha. On our way to Punakha via Thimphu, we had a pit-stop at Dochula Pass for its stunning views and 108 stupas or memorial chortens.
A walk through the property
Pemako’s lavish property in the beautiful valley of Punakha made the most use of thoughtful designs incorporating Bhutanese cultural elements seamlessly with all the modern amenities. Pemako Punakha shares friendly boundaries with the Mo Chhu or the female river, just a few miles away from the majestic Punakha Dzong. Cross over the little suspension bridge across the river and you reach the property, which is a gateway to an experience of the slow-paced world of this mountain kingdom.
We were welcomed with rituals performed by a resident lama, who tied sacred threads on our wrists and blessed us with a wooden phallus -- a symbol of good luck in Bhutan -- as a part of the ceremony. We took a tour around the property spread across 60 acres of lush greenery, built caringly over seven years, boasting of an interesting combination of 19 luxury tented villas, one two-bedroom tented villa and one presidential suite villa - each privately placed, at different levels, uniting seamlessly with clear blue skies, the mighty Himalayas and diverse flora and fauna. The quaint, silent stay among the wilderness was indeed rejuvenating at many levels.
We stayed at villa number 7 that had a luxe backyard replete with a private temperature-controlled pool and we took a plunge into it while sipping on some local red wine, paired with candied nuts, rose cookies and chocolate barks.
The interiors of the room deserve a special mention. Co-designed by American landscape architect Bill Bensley and local Bhutanese architects and designers like Asha Kama, the Serge Ferrari fabric tents have a distinct blend of traditional and contemporary feel, reflecting comfort and extravagance. The yellow, white and orange colours of the Bhutanese national flag have been mindfully incorporated across the interiors of the room. From furnishings to lamps and art, the black colour interiors take inspiration from highland tents – traditionally made of yak skin and turned black over time due to the cooking fumes. The copper fixtures including a vintage copper tub in the bathroom add to the aesthetic appeal, while handpicked artisanal souvenirs placed across the room share deep insights into the lively culture of Bhutan.
Not just the tent villas, the whole estate was decorated with the five colours of prayer flags - yellow, green, red, white and blue-- masks of mythical beasts, giant prayer banners, and fascinating triptych depicting the landscapes of mythical Pemako (which means lotus array in Tibetan).
Flavour spotting
Meals at each diner in Pemako were unique experiences in themselves, with an explosion of local flavours and ingredients. The food tasted fresher and somehow, way more comforting than what we get in the cities.
The Alchemy House serves Bhutanese meals in a heritage setting, while Soma is a fine diner. Each of our meals featured Ema Datshi -- the national dish of Bhutan -- coupled with fluffy red rice. They rightly say, chillies are not a condiment but rather a vegetable for the Bhutanese, and you can't miss them on your way up to Alchemy House, soaking up some sun in the company of corn cobs. The cheese curries we relished there came nowhere close to the ones we get in the regular Bhutanese restaurants.
The food here is simple, light, yet piquant. While the stir-fries have strong notes of garlic, onions, tomatoes, spring onions and the mouth-numbing Sichuan pepper, the curries are mild, poachy and stew-like. Among everything that we tasted during our stay, the mild and comforting butter-poached trout stew, and Sikam Paa, a stir-fry made with dried pork belly, radish and a mix of spices, were something we would definitely miss.
While here, you have to have a meal on the outdoor deck are at Soma, that overlooks the Mo-Chu. We also spent some time over a chilled flavoured ara (the local brew) at The Five Nectars bar. The contemporary high stool seating along with the authentic floor seating, are perfect spots to guzzle down watermelon, orange or carrot and ginger ara, besides the local wines, cognacs and whiskeys.
Experiences worthwhile
The mornings started with chanting and meditation at the yoga room, guided by the Lama, and the breakfast served by the riverfront was an experience to savour. We gave archery a shot at Pemako’s archery ground, just to check out our aiming skills for fun. You can also choose to go on a short trek of 1.5 hours to the topmost point in the area, (within the premises) and get rid of the calories gained out of cheese and liquor.
While you must visit the Punakha Dzong (fortress) -- which is the biggest fortress in the country housing the administrative centre of Punakha, the main temple -- and the Punakha Suspension bridge, go slow and soak in every bit of nature that the place has to offer.
No luxe vacation is complete without a spa, and we experienced Bhutanese hot stone bath -- a unique, slow, nurturing ritual offering a modern touch of spa therapy transcending from conventional treatments. The bath water was infused with five distinct herbs -- safflower, Polygonatum (Soloman’s seal), white rhododendron, amla and terminalia --each with their unique healing properties . After one and a half hours of goodness, we were refreshed, relaxed and ready for the next leg of our trip.
The drive to Thimphu
It was a very difficult goodbye made a little easy by the gorgeous 2.5 hours drive to Thimphu through a route strewn with rich pink peach blossoms, light pink apricot blossoms and pristine white pear blossoms. Higher up, you might also spot the vibrant violet jacaranda flowers and fiery red rhododendrons.
Luxe corporate stay
At Pemako Thimphu, too, smiling faces greeted us with lemony, warm welcome drinks. This property, with a luxe corporate approach, is starkly different from the one at Punakha. Sprawling rooms, huge staircases, fine diners, and spas make it a luxe capital destination.
The rebranded property, featuring 66 meticulously designed suites and rooms, has a stunning facade resembling Bhutan’s Dzong that aesthetically blends with a modern design. As one enters the spectacular premises, the grandeur of the destination overwhelms one at the entrance with huge antique bells hanging from the ceiling, and scintillating relics placed tastefully at each corner. Unlike the one in Punakha, Pemako Thimphu is an urban architectural wonder blending traditional with contemporary.
While experientially, it isn’t anything exotic, the host of handicrafts stalls just beside the hotels have enough local products to keep you engrossed including hand-woven bags, woollen infinity scarves, ear covers, headbands and ponchos, and hand-painted wooden and metal phalluses. You may even walk across to the nearest farmers' market for some local produce, dried veggies, yak cheese, and incense sticks and don’t forget to take home some fiddlehead ferns.
Take some time out during the daytime to visit the Buddha Dordenma statue -- a gigantic 169ft. Shakyamuni Buddha in the mountains of Bhutan celebrating the 60th anniversary of the fourth king Jigme Singye Wangchuck. The statue houses over one hundred thousand smaller Buddha statues of 9 different sizes), each of which, like the Great Buddha Dordenma itself, is made of bronze and gilded in gold. The gigantic Buddha also has a huge diamond for his third eye.
Visit Motithang Takin Preserve, the wildlife reserve area for takin, the national animal of Bhutan, professed to be a mythical creature created by The Divine Madman, a Tibetan Saint, in the 15th Century. It boasts of the head of a goat, the body of a cow and the legs of a pig. The super lazy herbivores (as we spotted them to be) were oblivious to our curiosity around them and kept posing happily for pictures.
To wrap up our final day, a toast over a glass of Bhutanese peach wine, and a wholesome, lip-smacking Bhutanese meal was a must!
The author was at the Pemako hotels on invitation.
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How to reach: Bhutan Airlines and Druk Airlines offer regular flights from Kolkata and Delhi. From Kolkata, it is around 1 hour 15 mins of flight time.
Souvenirs to covet: Local liquor, phalluses, hand-woven winter wear, Gho and Kiro, Bhutanese dolls, dried chillies, yak cheese, vegetarian and non-vegetarian achaar, local red rice, Cordyceps.