FLO Chennai revives Toda embroidery and jamakkalams for modern homes

Challenging the connotations of Toda embroidery and jamakkalams, a few women game changers are making us rethink handmade with the ultimate goal of housing it in our homes. Under the leadership of Divya Abhishek, chairperson of FICCI Ladies Organisation (FLO) Chennai, and with the dedicated efforts of Arti Bagdy, head of the Handloom and Textile Vertical of FLO Chennai, along with her committed team of Vharsha Raheja and Nabila Avais, a pioneering initiative has brought Toda embroidery and jamakkalams into contemporary relevance. This initiative, rooted in FLO Chennai’s mission to empower artisans and preserve India’s rich textile legacy, has resulted in an exclusive collection of rugs, cushion covers, table runners, and lifestyle products. The traditional vibrancy of jamakkalams has been adapted to contemporary aesthetics, while Toda embroidery, a rare and intricate craft of the Nilgiris, has been reinterpreted into elegant home furnishings and stoles. Divya Abhishek says, “We remain dedicated to empowering women entrepreneurs and artisans by blending tradition with innovation. Our focus is on building sustainable ecosystems for traditional crafts, ensuring artisans gain recognition and economic opportunities.” Arti Bagdy talks to us more about the vision, staying true to heritage, expanding the horizons and more.

Q. What drove your vision for this project?

A. The idea came from a deep love for our heritage and a strong desire to give these crafts a new life. Toda embroidery and jamakkalams are beautiful, but they were losing relevance in today’s world. I wanted to find a way to bring them into modern homes while keeping their essence intact. By adapting them into home décor—like cushions, throws, and furnishings—we’re not just preserving tradition, we’re making it a part of everyday life. The vision has always been to support artisans and ensure their incredible work is valued and sustained for generations to come.

Q. How did you manage to bring together traditional artisans and modern design?

A. It was all about creating a balance — honouring tradition while making it relevant today. We spent time with artisans, understanding their techniques and stories. My team members and I explored designs and products that could elevate these crafts without losing their essence. With Toda embroidery, we are trying to introduce finer fabrics and contemporary applications, while for jamakkalams, we expanded beyond rugs into furnishings. The key was collaboration, respecting their skills while opening doors to new possibilities.

Q. Could you elaborate on how eco-friendly materials and natural dyes were incorporated into the collection?

A. Sustainability was at the heart of this project. We ensured that all materials used were eco-friendly — Toda embroidery was done on handwoven fabrics, and jamakkalams continued to be crafted from natural cotton.

Q. The collaboration of master artisans with modern designers is central to this initiative. Can you elaborate?

A. This initiative is driven by passion and a shared vision. We are a team of three women working directly with artisans to revive these crafts, experimenting and adapting their skills for contemporary appeal. So far, there have been no designers — just our dedication to preserving tradition. Hopefully, in the future, we hope to hire and bring in experts to expand our vision and impact.

Q. Cherie Blair’s recognition of this initiative highlights its international significance. How do you envision expanding its global reach?

A. We were truly honoured by Ms Cherie Blair’s appreciation. Her recognition reinforces the importance of our mission — to preserve Tamil Nadu’s textile heritage by working closely with artisans and adapting these crafts for today’s world. Our vision is to take these traditions beyond India, creating global awareness and demand.

Q. What challenges did you face when reimagining jamakkalams and Toda embroidery for modern lifestyles?

A. A significant challenge we faced was our limited reach to artisans and weavers, which often led to delays in fulfilling orders. Since we’re a small team, coordinating directly with artisans and managing production can sometimes be slow. However, we’ve been working closely with the artisans, understanding their challenges, and fostering open communication to improve timelines. We’re also exploring ways to expand our network, so we can reach more artisans and streamline the process while ensuring the quality and authenticity of the crafts remain intact.

Q. This project showcases how women-led initiatives can drive change. How do you see this collaboration empowering women artisans?

A. By working with women artisans, especially Toda artisans, we’re giving them the opportunity to showcase their skills and earn fair wages. This empowers them to become more financially independent and confident in their craft. Over time, I believe this will uplift not only the artisans themselves but also their communities, providing them with better opportunities and a stronger sense of pride in their heritage.

Q. How do you plan to engage the global community and connoisseurs in embracing these crafts?

A. We have plans to showcase these reimagined crafts through various channels, from online platforms to collaborations with international galleries and design exhibitions. We wish to reach top stores of furnishings and craft revival stores across India and abroad, showcasing these products to a wider audience. Our long-term strategy will include creating a strong network of supporters and partners, ensuring these crafts thrive for generations.

—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com

@ManuVipin