Travel: Get set for a luxe affair at Bari Kothi as you explore Murshidabad

If you wish to visit Murshidabad city, the original seat of power, palace intrigues, wealth and culture, a two-night stay at the Bari Kothi Heritage Hotel on the other side of the Bhagirathi bank can be an enriching and more peaceful experience. Filled with folklore and stories around the founder of the city, the first nawab of Bengal, Murshid Quli Khan, Murshidabad is dotted with relics and remnants of the thriving 18th-century Bengal that reminds you of a glorious era when Bengal was the bone of contention among the contending European trading companies grappling to gain control over its rich repository of wealth. Now reduced to a small town that barely survives on agriculture and ever-depleting sericulture, the dusty town has hardly a few proper accommodations where you can relax and roam around at your own pace to explore the city's vast history and lineage.

Located on the banks of Azimganj, Bari Kothi stands out as an attractive luxe property that offers a serene respite away from the dust and grime that infiltrates the main town. With several trains plying on a single day, you can reach Azimganj in flat 5 hours if you do not feel like driving down to the place, which is only 240 km away from Kolkata. Owned by the famed mercantile family of the Dudhorias, who settled in Azimganj along with the banker family Jagat Seth - the Medicis of the East -- Bari Kothi, co-owned by siblings Darshan and Lipika Dudhoria, was built during the late 18th century by Rai Bahadur Budh Singh Dudhoria, a prominent member of the Seherwali community that made Azimganj-Jiaganj their home.

As soon as you step into the property you will be transported to the long-lost pre-colonial era that beautifully melded the architectural styles of the Greek, Roman French and Islamic world with an overarching Rajasthani and regional influence be it the classically tiled floors, the arches, the stained glass panels, the paisley worked walls, wooden carved windows and doors, the ubiquitous jafri work or the imposing European pillars. For over six years, Lipika and Darshan ensured that everything got carefully reconstructed and rebuilt under the strict supervision of the famed architect Samar Chandra before the grand haveli opened its doors for guests in late 2019.

The entire space has been decorated by upcycling and recycling of the materials of the property. Areas like the Sheesh Mahal, Amar Pakshi Mahal and Zareen Mahal have been decorated with restructured and old louvres and window designs with the doors displaying the chunky kadhas for knobs and wall designs speaking of the Mughal opulence of the bygone eras. Intricate Bengali ‘alpona’ decks up several walls to meld in local culture as well.

The Darbar Hall, which is about 250 years old has been meticulously restructured with minor changes and we were awestruck by the stained glass windows and the hand-painted and hand-crafted European tiles that bedeck it.

The Gaddi Ghar too deserves a special mention for its Indo-Islamic architecture and time-tested Burma teak pillars.  

But it's not the architecture alone that will impress you about your stay at this hotel. The owners have caringly curated a luxury experiential journey for the guests, reeking with the history and culture of the Sheherwalis, be it cuisine or lifestyle. Hence, we were greeted with an aarti and tall glasses of refreshing sherbets on our arrival by a warm bunch of staff dressed in typical white saris with red borders. What we loved were the happy and smiling faces of the local staff, who will at once make you feel like royalty with their balanced care and attention, slowly attuning you to the pleasantly lazy pace of the place.

Bari Kothi takes its no-plastic policy pretty seriously and underscores a sustainable luxury ecosystem. We stayed in the very decadent Maharaja suite done up with antique furniture, tiles and chandeliers. Everything about the room including, the mahogany tall bed, the corner writing desk, the dresser, the ornate almirah and the intricate furnishings with a red accent will take you back to the zamindari era and we were relieved by the absence of the television.  

Our packed staycation ensued with an equally delectable culinary trail of the Sheherwali cuisine at the grand dining hall. The gustatory affair took off with raw banana stuffed Jaini samosa and yummy and soft dahi vadas followed by ridged gourd fritters, puri aloo dum, khichdi and local vegan sweets. After an hour of soaking in the local vibes and visiting the stunning Char Bangla Mandir -- four terracotta temples built by Rani Bhabani of Natore in 1755 -- we trailed off to Bari Kothi's private ghat for a very refreshing ride on a royal bajra over some farm-fresh snacks and tea.

With only chirping birds for company, the river sojourn was therapeutic in more ways than we could ever imagine. Midway before turning back, we halted to explore the world of farming. The rich alluvial soil provides a perfect ground for growing a diverse range of fruits and veggies including mangoes, litchis, guavas, coconuts, plums, gourds, cabbages, cauliflower, carrots, radishes, eggplants, okras and coriander among others and we were happy to pluck some fresh produce for salad. On our way back, we also chanced upon an ongoing Varanasi-style mini aarti on the Jiaganj ghat.  

The evening was well-spent with some Baul and folk music before we called curtains with an eclectic spread of local and Santhali delicacies. The next day began with a purely desi breakfast by the riverside gazebos of the property and we loved the detox drink Dhanagra made with Indian spices and herbs. 

We kicked off our last day with a hectic sightseeing trip that covered most of the important spots like Nashipur Rajbari, Hazarduari palace, Tomb of Ajimunnisa Begum, House of Jagat Seth (the erstwhile mint turned into a museum), Mir Jafar Palace, Fauti mosque and Katra Masjid and headed off to Kathgola Palace for a one-of-a-kind royal lunch in the gardens. 

Besides marvelling at the splendid architecture of the buildings and the rich and interesting history associated with the places, one cannot help but feel a bit of futile rage at the indifference of a few private custodians towards important relics and records which are languishing due to lack of proper care.

We spent the last night of a very rejuvenating stay with a very typical Rajasthani meal comprising daal baati churma and bajra khichhdi besides other lip-smacking delicacies. The freshly-cooked vegetarian fare served during our entire stay was so soul-satisfying that even hardcore carnivores like us felt no meat cravings. 

Before leaving, a visit to their in-house shop is a must for the finest Bengal weaves and pottery apart from some kitchen-made preservative-less and oil-less seasonal pickles.

The one thing we liked about Bari Kothi? It's a wholesome experience saddled with impeccable hospitality that will instantly make you feel like you have visited your ancestral home after a long spell of urban hustle to look back at an eventful era. 

The writer was there on an invitation from the property.