“Hold it tight, steady your hands, and try to get up with your abs,” yelped our 17-year-old surfing instructor from the beach as we grappled with our surfboards trying to stand up each time before the sea waves gushed towards us. If you are looking for a sun-kissed and fun-filled holiday amidst nature, crisscrossing the Northern Rivers in the north-easterly region of New South Wales in Australia can be a great option.
We explored the picture postcard towns Tweed Heads, Tweed Shire, and Byron Bay -- a paradise for those who love surfing, kayaking, snorkeling and diving, or simply lazing around near the waters. The scenic villages, lush hinterlands, expansive beaches, and some of the best diners have turned these peaceful and sleepy towns into popular destinations for barefoot luxury. And if you are lucky enough, you might also catch a glimpse of Hollywood stars like Chris Hemsworth and Margot Robbie who have homes in Byron Bay.
A few hours' drive from Gold Coast, as we crossed over to New South Wales, we halted at The Farm in Edswingale, close to Byron Bay or Cavanbah – a beach town synonymous with surf, sea, and a laidback lifestyle.
Housing a collection of micro-businesses comprising lush Macadamia orchards, apiaries, chicken sheds and grazing cattle, The Farm is a far cry from the traditional ranches. What had our attention was 19-year-old farmer Oliver Bora’s sustainable free-range egg farming venture, Oliver’s Hens. About 1,500 hens produce organic free-range eggs for the local community. Each of his hens gets 4 square metres to move during the day instead of the standard 1 square metre, making the eggs more nutritive than the conventional free-range eggs.
By moving the hens every two weeks, Oliver lets the grass regrow, and the soil regenerate. We noticed the same holistic approach with livestock grazing, where they use only two-thirds of the 88 acres of The Farm's land at a time, to maintain soil biodiversity.
We had a soulful farm-to-table meal with local veggies and fish at the restaurant Three Blue Ducks boasting a 12-metre outdoor kitchen, including a double spit, a woodfire pizza oven, an Argentinian grill, and a bar offering 56 taps of Australian craft beer.
Our next destination was Husk Farm Distillery in Tweed Shire, renowned for its famed Ink Gin. Interestingly, the distillery sustainably rears the fattest and happiest cows in the region by feeding the cattle with stillage, spent botanicals, cane tops, and the high protein yeast left behind after distilling rums.
Feeling light and peppy after an enlightening gin and rum tasting session at Husk, we headed for Halcyon House in Cabarita Beach – our home for the next three days. A luxe boutique hotel with a mind-blowing sea view, Halcyon House wears a classic European look comprising 19 rooms, two 2-bedroom suites, and a 1-bedroom suite, a stunning beachfront pool and terrace besides direct access to the beach. The lush carpet grass pathway which opens to the beach is dotted with some of the most stylish bungalows in the prosperous neighbourhood. Post an amble around the beach, a 5-course dinner at Halcyon’s two-hatted restaurant Paper Daisy was all that we craved for. Popular Chef Jason Barratt curated a hearty meal with local produce and sustainably sourced seafood for us. There was some fresh Hiramasa kingfish head terrine, caper, nori, crème fraiche to nibble with Collet Champagne. The seared and spiced kangaroo tartare with rocket leaves and potato crisps was served immediately after and we couldn’t have enough of it. The exotic Goondiwindi pork with radicchio, witlof, persimmon, and oak blue cheese was a worthy successor before we ended the exquisite affair with a local dessert consisting of Australian cheese, orange and mountain pepper marmalade with some rye cracker.
The next morning saw us kayaking in the gurgling waters of the Cudgen Creek followed by a cold dip into the river. We rowed up to the Cudgen Creek Estuary to witness the river embrace the sea with open arms in the estuary. The Kingscliff is nestled right between the amazing stretch of breathtaking beaches (from Cabarita to Fingal Head) and the Tweed River, and is a great spot for both locals and tourists to have a whale of a time. We too couldn’t miss surfing in the Coral Sea and had a memorable time riding the swells, sometimes standing tall and at times, just lying upside down clutching the surfboard close to our hearts against the hurtling waves. After an exhausting session, we had a filling Spanner Crab omelette and cold-pressed juice at Choux Box -- an award-winning lunch spot and cocktail bar -- and rushed back to the hotel for a relaxing spa to rejuvenate the tired limbs.
An evening promenade around the sun-kissed Cabarita beach was followed by a sumptuous dinner at the famed Gallura Italian. Headed by chef Mike Dackiw, who lays great stress on fresh local seafood, handmade pasta, and innovative Sardinian methods, the diner curated a variety of starters, and appetisers for us. We loved Linguine comprising Tweed King Prawns, New Zealand’s vongoles, famed Tasmanian Spring Bay mussels, local Bottarga, and seasonal veggies. The Sydney Rock Oysters with pickled fennel, dill, and chilli vinaigrette was appetizing too while the antipasti consisting of Eye Fillet Beef Carpaccio doused in truffled honey vinaigrette was a revelation in terms of taste and succulence. For desserts, we couldn’t give the Classic Sicilian Cannoli with fresh ricotta, candied orange, and lemon a miss.
A bit hectic, the last day saw us covering the best in the Tweed region before moving to Byron Bay. The morning was spent on the expansive Tweed River with a breakfast cruise organised by Tweed Escapes. Curated by the iconic Blue Ginger, the brunch had an array of rare local produce like marinated garlic, organic Totopos, handmade dips, and mixed olives. We relished every bit of the spread while soaking in all the natural beauty on both sides of the river banks.
Our next stop was the Tweed Regional Gallery which exhibits modern and emerging artists across the country and globe. But our main attraction point was The Margaret Olley Art Centre in the gallery which pays homage to Australia’s most celebrated still life painter. The recreation of Olley's home studio featuring original architectural elements such as windows and doors relocated from her Sydney home is an incredibly stunning feat. It was an overwhelming experience to gloss over 20,000 items -- collected by Olleyduring her lifetime to serve as subjects for her paintings -- on display in the exact manner that they were at the artist’s home.
The last day of our trip was spent at the plush Crystalbrook Byron Bay resort nestled in 45 acres of subtropical rainforest. Inhabited by cute little wallabies and other local species, this spot captures nature at its best and offers the jet-set guests a welcome break away from urban trappings. We spent a leisurely day practising Yoga at the crack of dawn and spotting a few timid wallabies scouting for some food. An impressive dinner at the upscale Raes Dining Room, helmed by chef Jason Saxby, was perhaps the best icing on the cake.
If you are hard-pressed for time and looking for unique destinations that bring you closer to nature with a sprinkling of luxury, the Northern Rivers can surprise you in ways more than one.
The author's fam trip was a part of the Australian Tourism Exchange'23 held at Gold Coast