Secret of the Sahyadri: Belagavi can be the monsoon getaway that you’ve always wanted

The first time we heard that we were invited to Belagavi for a familiarisation trip, our reaction was: is there anything worth seeing there? How uninformed were we, because our maiden visit to the city proved that the city had so much to offer and lots more!

Belagavi, Belgaum or Belgaon. Call it what you may, the city traces its origins to the 12th Century CE, when the Ratta Dynasty shifted their capital from Saundatti (80 kms away) to what was then called Venugram (Bamboo Village). One of the first areas they developed is now within the safekeeping of the Belgaum Fort and is known as the Kamal Basadi area. The city then passed in and out of several kingdoms and finally into independent India, where it has continued to be claimed by two states — the current parent state of Karnataka and also the neighbouring state of Maharashtra.

With an average elevation of 770 metres (2,530 feet), the climate is pleasant and the city is a great place to head to at anytime of the year. We visited during the monsoons and the weather wasn’t very different from a hill station — rainclouds and descending mists included. If you get a chance to visit Belagavi anytime soon, here are some of the places that you have to visit, just so you, like us, change your opinion about this beautiful ‘gaum’ on the Sahyadri foothills.

Kamal Basadi

The Kamal Basadi was built by Birchiraja, also called Jaya Raya, an officer in the court of Kartavirya IV of the Ratta Dynasty in 1204 CE under the guidance of a Jain monk. According to two stone tablets, now placed inside Royal Asiatic Society branch in Mumbai, an inscription dating back to 1205 CE, the temple was constructed by the architect Kartaviryadeva and Yuvrajakumara Mallikarjunadeva. Situated in the heart of the city within the confines of the Belgaum Fort, two structures exist — a temple to Neminatha and a resthouse right beside it.

Safa Masjid

In 1474, the Bahmani Sultanate conquered Belgaum with an army led by Mahmud Gawan. The Belgaum Fort was strengthened by the Adil Shah Dynasty sultans and they built the Safa Mosque. A Persian inscription states that the mosque was built by Asad Khan, a Bijapur commander. In 1518, the Bahamani Sultanate splintered into five small states and Belgaum became part of the erstwhile Bijapur Sultanate. Situated within the same fort as the Kamal Basadi, it stands testament to how different powers managed to rule out of the same capital for a long period of time.

St Mary’s Church

Built in 1869, it was consecrated by the then governor of the Bombay Presidency and is built in the Gothic Style. Rev Francis Gell is believed to have designed the building. This imposing stone church of the Anglican order has fine piers in the prayer hall and gorgeous stained glasses at its doors and windows. The altar is built with teak and marble and is towered by an exceptionally beautiful stained-glass collage which depicts the life of Jesus from birth to resurrection in 12 frames. The church is located within the Camp area, which is what remains of the once popular Belgaum Cantonment that existed during the British Era.

Yellur Fort

Perched at the top of a hill close to Belagavi city (15 kms), Yellur Fort (also known as Rajhansgad Fort) is an ancient fort that has been ruled by several kings including the Marathas, the Peshwas, the Hoysalas and the Bahamani Sultans. Besides the stunning views of the valley below, glossy carpeted meadows and verdant paddy fields — the fortress also has a Shiva Temple (Bhootnath Temple) and a rustic well enclosed within the walls. The fort was originally constructed by the Rattas and later renovated in stone by Asad Khan Lari of Bijapur. It served as an outpost of the Belagavi Fort, providing a strategic vantage point to spot and prevent enemies from the Goa and Karwar areas. During the British rule, the fort was garrisoned with around 100 soldiers for its protection. It now also houses a 50-foot-tall statue of Chhatrapati Shivaji.

Nearest railhead and airport: Belagavi. Stay at: Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels, Belagavi.

Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
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