We explore Kuruba culture, tribal settlements and culinary delicacies of Kabini — one of Asia’s largest tiger reserve

Last week, we took a short yet profoundly enlightening trip to Kabini, a destination often recognised for its proximity to the Nagarhole and Bandipur Tiger Reserves. However, in the span of just three days, we discovered that this region is far more than just a wildlife enthusiast’s paradise. Thanks to our stay at Evolve Back Kabini, we experienced a guided visit — called Spirit of Kabini — complete with personal interactions with locals of the kuruba community near the resort who have a unique culture and lifestyle.

The River Kabini (and Kapila), has several small tribal hamlets on its banks, home to communities that were once deeply embedded within the forests. These villages, predominantly occupied by the Jenu Kurubas and Betta Kurubas, are communities that once lived deep within the forests but were later relocated when the area was designated as a protected sanctuary. The Jenu Kurubas, whose name translates to ‘honey-gatherers’ and the Betta Kurubas, an ancient hunting clan, have long been regarded as the caretakers of Kabini. Their intimate knowledge of the land and its resources is unparalleled and despite leaving behind their traditional occupations of hunting and honey extraction, they have turned to agriculture, cultivating staple crops like ragi, jowar and metre beans, alongside modern additions like chia seeds and tapioca.

Beyond the tribal settlements, Kabini’s landscape offers its own surprises. Among them is the striking seasonal bloom of the gliricidia sepium, an often-overlooked tree that erupts in vivid pink and lilac blossoms. Lining the otherwise earthy, ochre-hued trails, these blossoms announce the arrival of summer in a terrain otherwise dominated by dry deciduous forests. Their presence transforms the roads into a breathtaking corridor of colour, reminiscent of Japan’s famed cherry blossoms yet rooted in a distinctly Indian wilderness.

Another floral marvel that captured our attention was the Flame of the Forest and its twin, the Red Silk Cotton Tree, both revered for their medicinal properties. During the scorching summer months, as the supply of fresh grass dwindles, elephants, birds and monkeys seek out the nutrient-rich seeds hidden in their pods. But the fauna is not the only thing to benefit — travellers and wine sommeliers may be intrigued to learn that the indigenous communities use these very seeds to prepare a potent, traditional wine with an unexpected kick.

Our curiosity towards the tribes’ culinary traditions further led us to discover that Kaadu Balekai or wild raw banana fruit that, once dried, has its insides extracted, powdered and cooked as an alternative to rice. It can also be roasted and consumed like corn, offering a unique flavour profile that has sustained these communities for generations. Another note-worthy snack to try is the masala sweet potato, which is baked diced into cubes and dressed with honey and lemon juice before salt and spices are sprinkled over them. We prefer it all mashed together and paired with a cup of a Jaggery Kaapi (black coffee) seasoned with ginger and pepper that is sure to cure a sore throat or cold in one drink.

The tribes’ cultural traditions are equally fascinating. Each settlement houses a chawdi, a communal meeting hall, where decisions on marriages and societal matters are overseen by the village head. Among the Jenu Kuruba, a pre-wedding ritual requires the couple to spend seven days in the forest, surviving entirely on their own before receiving approval to wed — a testament to their deep-rooted resilience and connection to nature. This ritual stands as a significant contrast to the customs of the Betta Kuruba community who prefer a simple match-making, illustrating the rich diversity within Kabini’s indigenous cultures.