
If you had to describe Fiji in a word, what would it be? The sun-kissed sand beaches, the Pacific Ocean, the food, the weather, or the luxe hospitality? We would say, the people. What makes this archipelago of 322 islands distinctly different from the other Pacific islands is its 900,000-plus inhabitants.
As we touched down after a tiring 14-hour flight with a seven-hour halt in between, we were swept away not by the salty sea breeze but by the warm Bula (hello or welcome in Fijian) that our guide hollered to us. For the next eight days of our stay in Fiji, Bula, and Vinaka, (thank you in Fijian) were common words of exchange between us and the colourful Fijians, dressed in vibrant prints with freshly plucked flowers pinned or tucked behind their ears.
As we ambled around the airport to get a feel of the country while waiting for our car to arrive, we could feel the infectious Fiji vibes. The weather, like any tropical island, was humid, with unannounced spells of showers interspersing the day. We boarded our car to go to the nearby Nama Fiji spa training centre and experienced one of the best spas in Fiji—a much-needed ritual after the tiring flight. Interestingly, the training centre, run by Nama Fiji—a luxe plant-based skincare label by Debra Sadranu—trains local Fijian women for jobs in the growing wellness sector. All of their products have extracts of sea grapes, a local variety of seaweed native to the Yasawa Islands in Fiji, which is rich in trace mineral elements. The rejuvenating spa got us ready for a wholesome lunch at Indigo, a culinary gem at the picturesque Port Denarau Marina in Nadi. The restaurant offers a diverse menu featuring seafood, tender meats, and vegetarian dishes in a stylish setting overlooking the scenic Nadi River.
Our first two nights were spent at the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, which is nestled amidst 35 acres of tropical gardens along the picturesque Natadola Beach, overlooking the Pacific Ocean and protected by an aquamarine lagoon created by a reef. The spa at this property is a unique experience, and we loved the feel of the pure golden honey produced by the bees nurtured there. For those seeking solace in the lap of nature, Fiji offers a mix of the sea and green plains crisscrossed by rivers. The following day saw us heading for the Sigatoka River Safari, and we must say, the memories of it will stay with us for a long time to come.
Flowing across the island of Viti Levu for over 120 km, the Sigatoka is one of the major rivers in Fiji, along with the Rewa, Ba, and Nadi. It is still the chief mode of transportation for many remote villages located on its banks. We had a 17 km-long scenic cruise on a speedboat that included the most fertile region of Fiji, called the Salad Bowl. On our way to one such village, our guide Josh enthralled us with lore around the region’s ancient traditional practices, including cannibalism. We arrived at the quaint Juberata village of about 100 well-knit families, where we were welcomed with local song and dance. After a short walk, we were ushered into the humble community hall where the Kava ceremony began. Kava is not only a non-alcoholic, relaxing drink that Fijians have daily after work, but it also acts as an icebreaker before a stranger is welcomed into the Fijian community.
Naturally, before the village accepted us as one of their own, the chief presided over the ceremony. According to local customs, the oldest male from our group drank Kava along with the chief before we could proceed to drink as well. Falling in love with this chalky white drink, made from the root vegetable Piper methysticum, is a matter of acquired taste. Some of us loved it and went for a second round, while many couldn’t go beyond a sip or two. After the ceremony, we had a jolly good session of folk songs and dances with the locals, which whetted our appetite for a traditional lunch spread laid out on the floor. Prepared with everything local, nothing showcased Fiji’s cuisine better than this community lunch, which included dishes like country chicken gravy, riverine fish, and exotic indigenous veggies. We carried a part of Juberata with us as we trundled down the banks to board the boat back to Sigatoka town.
The next day, we enjoyed another breathtaking boat ride on the Navua River, discovering another part of the island on the Jewel of Fiji day tour. Our guide, Nemani Rokobuli, took us through the incredible history of Fijian tribes and the caste system prevalent in the region. The refreshing swim in the cold waters of the Wainikavou Falls (AKA Magic Waterfalls) amidst the wilderness was followed by a leisurely ride on their traditional bamboo raft, called bilibili. Fijians still use the bilibili to ferry their produce to the central market. Lunch began with the unearthing of barbequed free-range chicken from an underground oven. The Fijians call this cooking method Lovo, and the preparation was absolutely tender and heavenly to taste. We had a traditional Meke luncheon with the Raiwaqa community residing in the Danford family estate, which comprised local fish, root veggies, and coconut-based dishes. Nemani showed us how the villagers make sustainable mats and baskets with coconut leaves, while the women showcased Tapa paintings and other handmade local artefacts for sale.
In Fiji’s capital, Suva, we stayed at the century-old, majestic Grand Pacific Hotel, where Queen Elizabeth II stayed whenever she visited the erstwhile British colony. The hotel still has that prized room intact and open for reservations. We had no idea that perhaps the best adventure of the trip was awaiting us the following day, as we headed to the enchanting Nataleira village. The Natalei Experience is a tranquil retreat right on the exotic black sand beach. We boarded a yacht to go to Moon Reef for a deep-sea swimming adventure with dolphins. Schools of dolphins greeted us on our way to the reef, which is a haven for belugas. Spinner dolphins surrounded us as we swam and snorkelled in the crystal-clear waters to discover the picturesque undersea world of corals and colourful fish. The last leg of our trip saw us taking the wheel as we drove through Fiji’s charming landscape to our next destination—Shangri-La Yanuca, a beach resort hotel on a sprawling private island. On our way, we pulled over at Hot Glass Fiji, run by Alex and Alice Hill, where we learned how beautiful décor and jewellery pieces are brought to life with molten-coloured glass. A light lunch was our preference while driving, so Bula Coffee was our destination of choice to try out authentic crop-to-cup Fijian coffee along with a quick grab. A relaxing spa at Shangri-La helped us overcome the fatigue of a day-long journey and readied us for a delicious Indian spread at Yanuca Mirch, a state-of-the-art diner at the resort.
The last morning in Fiji was spent exploring the country’s Coral Coast at the Naidiri Marine Biodiversity Park, which offers snorkelling, and coral planting experiences guided by the nature-loving local village community. This spot is a haven for tropical fish, crabs, sea snails, blue-spotted rays, and octopuses and has been protected since 2009. Through conscious and sustainable practices, the villagers, alongside visiting marine biologists and the government, have restored fish stocks and preserved coral ecosystems threatened by climate change. If anyone asks us what the takeaway was from such an eventful and diverse trip to a country that’s 7,233.86 miles away from India, we’d like to end with the loving words of the head of Juberata village: “No matter which part of the world you are in, always remember you have a family here in us. Come back anytime you wish. This is your village.” Such words are even more reassuring in this world of constant flux and the selfish pursuits of life. Fiji, indeed, is special—for its people.
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