This heritage walk through Ballard Estate is a perfect way to explore Mumbai’s Edwardian legacy

What better way to explore the rich history of Mumbai’s most fascinating districts than by walking through its streets? That’s exactly what we did with Khaki Tours, a group of passionate Mumbaikars who specialise in uncovering the city’s hidden narratives. This was not just a walk — it was a journey through time, one that brought to life the grandeur of Mumbai’s first reclaimed business district, Ballard Estate.

At the turn of the 20th century, Mumbai stood on the brink of transformation. The city’s port was expanding rapidly, demanding new space for trade and commerce. In response, the Bombay Port Trust undertook an ambitious reclamation project, using rocks excavated from the construction of the Alexandra Docks to shape what would become Ballard Estate.

This grand district, built between 1914 and 1918, was named after colonel John Archibald Ballard, the first chairman of the Bombay Port Trust. Under the guidance of Scottish architect George Wittet, the estate was envisioned as a slice of ‘Edwardian London’ in Mumbai. George, known for his work on iconic landmarks like the Gateway of India and the Prince of Wales Museum, designed Ballard Estate in the baroque revival style, defined by symmetry, proportionality and very evident grandeur.

Our walk began at Café Model, a charming corner where we sipped warm coffee as the sun cast golden hues on the colonial streets. From there, we strolled to the Grand Hotel, a heritage boutique hotel that opened its doors in 1922. Designed by George himself, this hotel has stood as a silent witness to a century of Mumbai’s evolution.

A short walk away lies Karfule, Mumbai’s most pristine Art Deco petrol pump. Established in 1938 by Gabriel Sequeira, a Goan entrepreneur, Karfule’s fascinating design is characterised by horizontal banding and arrow motifs. Further along, we encountered the Volkart Building, home to the trading firm Volkart Brothers, which once played a pivotal role in connecting India and Europe’s cotton trade. The building’s window grills still bear the company’s insignia, a nod to its past.

Next, we stepped into the world of art and photography at Hamilton Studio, a historic space that once launched the careers of many, including Bollywood legend Zeenat Aman. Originally a matrimonial photography studio owned by Ranjit Madhavji, Hamilton Studio later became home to the prestigious Pundole Art Gallery and auction house.

At the next turn, we found ourselves before the Mackinnon Mackenzie Building, once the headquarters of the British India Steam Navigation Company. The grandeur of its neoclassical façade, complete with towering pillars and a majestic statue of Neptune, made it clear why this structure has stood the test of time. Nearby, Ballard Bunder gate stands as a relic of Mumbai’s maritime history. This dockside gatehouse, flanked by two cannons, houses a museum that tells the tale of the city’s bygone shipping industry. Though closed since the pandemic, its occasional openings reveal a treasure trove of vintage photographs and maritime artefacts.

Another stop on our tour was the World War I Memorial, a solemn tribute to the soldiers who gave their lives in service. A nearby plaque details the Port of Bombay’s crucial role in the war effort. We then arrived at New Customs House, an architectural marvel built in the early 20th century when Bombay’s mercantile trade was booming. The intricate window designs and distinctive pillar-like lamps at its entrance, shaped like melting wax candles, left us in awe.

No visit to Ballard Estate would be complete without stopping at the legendary Britannia & Co., an Irani café founded by the Kohinoor family in 1923. Known for its signature dishes — Berry Pulao, Caramel Custard and Rose Raspberry — it remains a jewel of South Bombay, albeit open only for lunch.

A few steps ahead, we came across Hague Building, originally known as Pathe Building, the Indian headquarters of the Paris-based film company Pathé Freres.

Our final stop was Vakils House, a historic printing press that played a vital role in shaping India’s publishing industry. Today, this grand structure has been reborn as the Mumbai flagship store of Tilfi, the benarasi textiles label. To commemorate its opening, Tilfi organised this special heritage walk, culminating in a preview of their new space. The space now houses rare handcrafted textile art, pieces of their parliament project and intricate benarasi metal repoussé sculptures, for a limited time, preserving India’s artistic traditions in a setting that itself is a piece of Mumbai’s history.

For anyone looking to experience Mumbai beyond the clichés, a heritage walk through Ballard Estate is a journey well worth taking. And the next one with Khaki Tours is happening this Saturday — BallardBolt. ₹599 per person. March 29, 4.30 pm. At Ballard Estate, South Mumbai.