Indulge rediscovers Meghalaya and explores these two stunning properties in Shillong and Cherrapunji

Among all the places we visited recently, Bhutan and Meghalaya topped our list. While it was our first time in Bhutan, we had visited Meghalaya, and this time, it was all about rediscovering this beautiful state. On our itinerary this time, we had Shillong and Cherrapunji, with Cherrapunji being our focal point. We chose two Polo properties, Polo Towers, Shillong and Polo Orchid, Cherrapunji, for our stay.

Trip to Meghalaya: The first stop at Shillong

A comfortable short flight from Kolkata, Shillong was our first stop. We checked into Hotel Polo Towers, and the warm, welcoming smiles made the place feel like home. We loved the vintage and cosy vibe of our room. The wooden flooring, spacious interiors, a comfortable bed, and lots of fresh flowers, won our hearts. We quickly got ready for our next destination, lunch at Dylan’s Café.

The cute café, believe it or not, was all about Bob Dylan, and goes without saying, a den for Dylan of the East, the iconic Lou Majaw. From posters and records to T-shirts and other merchandise, every corner paid tribute to the legend. Whether it was the Bob Dylan-themed ceiling or the staircase adorned with gramophone records, the space celebrated him thoroughly—yet the décor never felt over the top. We grooved to music as we sipped the Apple cinnamon tea and took a bite of the Chicken momos after dipping it into the freshly made peanut chutney. The momos were served in a cane basket, which prevents momos from sticking and looks super aesthetic as well.

A quick spell of rain and cold breeze ushered in the evening, when we were out exploring Police Bazaar, the nearest hub. We retired for the day after an elaborate meal at their newly launched restaurant, Tring Tring.

To the land of the seven sister waterfalls

As mentioned earlier, this time it was all about rediscovering the place after seven years. As we began our journey towards Cherrapunji, we noticed that the roads had been widened, but at the cost of the trees. One of the things we’ve always loved about this place is its lush greenery, so seeing it missing in some stretches was a bit disappointing.

We stopped by at ML 05 Café for lunch and decided to jump into a bowl of piping hot, soupy chicken Maggi. Themed around bikes, cars, and their parts, the café’s name comes from the first four characters of a Meghalaya vehicular number plate. But the surprise element in this place was how every few seconds, clouds would roll in, wrapping around the trees and blurring everything in sight, only for the tall pines to peek through again after a while. Trust us, you could spend hours watching just this.

Though the roads were rugged, we were overjoyed when we reached the Mawphlang Sacred Forest. Located in the East Khasi Hills, it is said that this sacred forest has been preserved by the local Khasi community for more than 800 years, not allowing any visitor in all these years to pick or pluck anything from this forest, not even a pebble or a twig. The dark canopy above and soft humus under your feet will transport you to a primaeval age — a stark contrast from the green meadows and pines that dominate the surrounding hills.

Apart from rare plants, mushrooms, and trees, the forest is also home to old coronation and sacrificial sites. This was where Khasi kings and ceremonial leaders (Ki Lyngdoh) had their meetings and even new chiefs were anointed here. The sites are marked with monoliths—the only reminders of a dignified past as the forest creeps around them. We also came across a small water reservoir, where water seeped out from between the rocks to fill it up—and believe it or not, it was as clear as glass. It’s often said that these clean, little water bodies found inside caves or mountains are great for the body, because of its high mineral content.

When we were done soaking in the greenery and exploring the forest, we headed to the Khasi Heritage Village, where we admired the different styles of vernacular architecture. Here we relished cups of tea and cookies lovingly sent to us by Polo Orchid but we had to wrap it up quickly as it began to rain.

It is serenity personified at Cherrapunji

Tucked away in the quaint village of Nohsithiang, built on a clifftop estate, is the quiet premise of Polo Cherrapunjee Resort. Even at the very first sight, you would realise how it evokes modernity with an unmistakable Sohra spirit in equal measure. Welcomed with drum rolls (quite literally), we checked into the Waterfall Pool Suite. By the time we checked in, it was evening already and dark outside, so, we couldn’t really spot the view, but the sprawling room got us excited. The room was set up in their newly unveiled building, had all modern, luxe amenities, with an infinity plunge pool.

We concluded the day with a BBQ dinner at Sohra House, which celebrates the legacy of the Raj and the erstwhile feeling of the British bungalows of Kut Madan, of which only a glimmer of brilliance remains. The morning began with a pleasant surprise as we opened our balcony door— which had a pool overlooking the Seven Sisters Falls. It felt surreal. After a hearty breakfast and a relaxing dip in the pool, we were all set to explore the Arwah Caves. The entrance to the cave is straight out of Arabian Nights, with a large sunken chamber leading to a network of winding caverns.

Arwah, one of Meghalaya’s most famous caves, is known for its fossils, which we spotted in the lit-up interiors—especially near the end. You will find crustacean shells and fish bones fossilised in the limestone walls of the cave. And how did we spot them? By using our phone flashlights. The trail inside felt like a maze—one moment you’re walking beneath a towering cave ceiling, and the next you’re squeezing through a narrow passageway that opens into another section.

The short hike to Arwah Cave was equally picturesque—an enchanting path carved out of dense vegetation. At one point, the trail hugs the side of Lawshynna Hill, offering stunning views of the waterfall and the surrounding valley. There’s even a cosy seating area along the way where you can pause and soak in the scenery.

Our last day was all about soaking in the Sohra weather and the deep sense of calm that this place offers. We sat on the sky deck for lunch—which is literally on the cliff top—and made friends with an adorable house cat while enjoying our lunch. The Grilled chicken we had was cooked to perfection and served with a side of roasted vegetables and flavourful mushroom jus.

Later, we indulged in a rejuvenating spa, while watching the sun dip below the horizon through giant windows—an experience so peaceful, words barely do it justice.

On that chilly evening, we retired to our warm blankets after enjoying a curated poolside Khublei (storytelling) dinner. A well-designed experience, we tasted a flavoured local wine with each of the dishes we tried. We began with homemade fuchka filled with local berries—little bursts of tanginess—paired beautifully with a sweet passion fruit wine.

Up next was the Taipo, a Tibetan dish considered a close cousin of the momo, filled with meat and sliced boiled egg, and perfectly complemented by a tangy strawberry wine. We loved how each of the dishes was well paired with the wine flavours, keeping in mind the flavour notes, stark contrasts.

The next dish, Syrwa syiar khasi, was our favourite. A local soup said to have healing properties. Made with boiled vegetables, chicken, and crushed peppercorn, found its best partner in the mildly sweet wild apple wine.

For the mains, we were served a local Chicken thali featuring Jastem, Jadoh, a crunchy tomato-onion salad, Mooli ka salad, tomato chutney, coriander chutney, Masor tenga, dal, Chicken with bamboo shoot, papad, paired with a sweet and slightly tangy mulberry wine. We wrapped up our meal with Assamese pitha and called it a day, packing a whole bag of memories, clouds, postcards and flavours to take back home.

We flew back the next afternoon, but not before making one last stop at a humble roadside kitchen for a simple, soul-warming lunch of rice, dal, and pork curry.