Evolve Back Kuruba Safari Lodge offers a serene Kabini escape with riverbank mornings, tribal tales and wilderness safaris

As humans we all have our preferred spots, much like Sheldon from The Big Bang Theory. Perhaps not as stringent or technical, but we, too, chose our table at Honey Comb, a restaurant, simply for the serene vista of both Bandipur and Nagarhole National Parks, it offered and we continued to dine there for every meal. What made it so special? It was the gentleness with which the river Kapila embraced the banks, like a warm hug, without a wave in sight. So still that elegant white cranes like the Great Egret, perch there undisturbed for hours, basking in the sun, occasionally striding through the shallows in search of a catch.

With a blink, the birds would vanish behind a herd of cows grazing fresh grass along the riparian zone, passing a tree shedding leaves over a bullock cart cradling a sleeping puppy. It was a scene straight from a countryside dream. It took us by surprise how something so simple could capture our hearts so deeply, all while we nestled behind a netted curtain in the restaurant, lunching on akki roti and kooru (a Kodavastyle beans curry).

Digital detox at the Evolve Back Kuruba Safari Lodge, Kabini

In that moment, we thought: if the first few hours at The Evolve Back Kuruba Safari Lodge, Kabini, could bring such stillness to our minds, how peaceful would we emerge by the end of our stay? When the premise mirrors a cosy forest hadi (village) of the local Kadu Kuruba tribe — complete with thatched-roof huts, boat rides on the river, lakeside benches, bullock cart outings, jungle safaris and tribal dance lessons — wouldn’t you be tempted to switch off your phone and embrace a slower life? That’s exactly what we did for the next three days.

Truth be told, with so much to explore, experience and learn, it wasn’t a Herculean task. Take our sojourn, for instance, inspired by the traditional dwellings of the Kuruba tribes: the expansive 2,400 sq ft Pool Hut featured a large open courtyard with a private pool, a spacious sit-out overlooking the river, a living and dining area, and a separate bedroom with an en-suite bathroom. If these comforts weren’t enough to inspire moments of solitude, all one had to do was wait for the moon to rise — soon, you’d find yourself stargazing at constellations unseen in the city or spotting nocturnal amphibians and insects crawling around the resort.

From local cuisine to ancient board games

At the crack of dawn, the property’s naturalists will have you cruising across the river, where you might just catch a glimpse of a big cat sauntering down to the banks for a morning drink. What you’re certain to spot, especially in summer, are cormorant chicks, spotted deer nursing their fawn, langurs cooling off with a swim and elephants congregating to feed on the fresh grass.

Afternoons, by contrast, are best spent indulging in a traditional Kabini Thali, followed by a guided session at the Interpretation Centre — an insightful showcase of the region’s rich biodiversity and cultural heritage. If you’re not tempted to return to your room for a quick nap or to recharge before your next outing, the property offers plenty to keep you occupied — from saying a quiet prayer at the charming little church, to playing traditional Indian board games by the family pool or simply lounging under the shade of towering trees in the infinity pool. It’s hard to tear yourself away, especially with the river stretching out before you. And just as you contemplate leaving, the hospitality team begins setting up the high-tea stall — a gentle reminder of how effortlessly sunny days here melt into blissful evenings.

In-house activities

That evening, on our first day, we sipped our chai and wandered down to the riverbank, eager for a ride in the coracle. Aside from the dizzying final spins — the guide’s signature send-off — we thoroughly enjoyed rowing the little boat across the calm waters, even if only for a short while.

As golden hour settled in, we had two choices: sip on a cocktail at the Sundowner Deck, tucked away in a quiet corner or head to the lakeside bench beside the Reading Lounge, where we could feed the fish, play light music and lose ourselves in the serenity of the moment.

Since we had just relished kulhad chai, we chose the latter. Luckily for us, the sky that evening displayed the most mesmerising hues of purples, yellows and oranges — a sunset worth remembering. We relished a hearty dinner buffet and watched the tribal dance performance before calling it a night.

What to explore around Kabini?

The next day was spent exploring the surroundings of the resort, beginning with a guided visit to a nearby Jenu Kuruba settlement. Indigenous to the region, the Jenu Kurubas have a distinct culture and way of life, which guests can experience first-hand through stories and personal interactions, often shared over a cup of jaggery kaapi — coffee seasoned with ginger and pepper.

Later, we embarked on a safari into Nagarhole National Park, where we sighted multiple elephants and sambhars, mud bathing to escape the summer heat. The highlight of the day, however, was spotting a tiger — even though it was from a distance — we watched in awe as she disappeared gracefully into the wilderness.

Movie night?

Exhausted, we chose to remain in our huts that afternoon, venturing out only in the evening to visit the Reading Lounge, which gives the illusion of a floating house on the Kabini backwaters. The perfect spot to put up your feet on the couch with a cup of Sidapur, the resort’s in-house coffee label, journalling our favourite memories from the trip.

But our day wasn’t over yet. We were eagerly looking forward to dining at Kuruba Grill, the resort’s speciality restaurant dedicated to kebabs and grills, serving up generous platters showcasing the finest flavours of the region. The dinner did not disappoint! Our day drew to a close with a special documentary screening on Kabini — a thoughtful glimpse into how its rich wildlife adapts and thrives through the changing seasons.

Retail &Therapy

On the final day, even the way we breathed felt different — our minds had come to a standstill. The last couple of days felt almost meditative and as we cycled along the banks of the river, we found ourselves tired yet utterly relaxed. But that, in fact, was the mission for the day.

Our next stop? The spa. Set within the brand’s signature traditional wooden South Indian house structure called Vaidyasala, complete with lily-filled ponds just outside — the spa offered a serene charm of its own. We opted for the rejuvenating Udvarthana — a full-body massage performed by two therapists using a specially formulated herbal oil paste, known to reduce tan, cellulite and excess fat.

Having previously visited Evolve Back’s Hampi property, we already knew that their spa experience outshines the rest — it truly is among the best in the country. But equally impressive is Angadi, their boutique shop that supports local artists and artisans. Naturally, we were eager to browse and take home a piece of Kabini with us.

Why the resort is worth a visit?

As we packed our bags and took one last look at the still waters of the Kabini, it became clear that this wasn’t just a getaway — it was a gentle reminder of how nourishing slow living can be. Especially for us who lead fast-paced lives in the city. We were glad that each moment here brought us closer to nature and, more importantly, to ourselves.

₹37,000 onwards. At Beerambally, Jakkalli. Nearest railhead: Mysore. Nearest airport: Bengaluru. The property is a five-hour drive from Bengaluru.