While I have always been rather reverential about having my cognac neat, when Christophe Valtaud suggests sipping the fine French spirit with various mixes, I am willing to explore the notion. A native of the Cognac region, he grew up in a family where cognac and cognac-making were at the core — hence, one concedes the gravitas of his take on the matter. “My father and grandfather were winegrowers and I would follow them around from an early age. As long as I can remember, I have been in the vineyards, so it was very natural to keep building on this heritage and extend my expertise,” says the Cellar Master of the house of Martell, who takes us on a fascinating journey of global trends and interesting pairings that retain the exclusivity of the cognac in a new market.
Refreshing spirit
Though the 39-year-old agrees that mature drinkers will savour a pour of cognac neat, he proceeds to break it to me in an interaction that, “The days of clichéd cognac drinkers being reserved to cigar smokers, curling up next to a roaring fire while casually swirling a snifter of the amber-coloured liquor, are long gone.”
However, Valtaud, who is yet to visit India, adds that the new identity has its own allure. With the younger generation flaunting a penchant for the experimental, mixology is a good way to introduce cognac to them — through exciting cocktails or long drinks, mixing cognac with tonic, ginger ale or green tea, for example.
In fact, Valtaud lets in that the Maison Martell recently launched the Martell NCF (Non Chill Filtered), a new cognac, just to woo the younger demographic. “It is filtered at room temperature in order to unleash its irresistibly smooth and expressive aromas when served with ice,” informs Valtaud, who was formerly the Vineyard Manager within the Maine au Bois Company and believes that a cognac should be tasted in a way that reveals all its authenticity and complexity. “But the true richness of our House is the mingling of cultures, and we understand, respect and valorise the diversity of ways to enjoy our cognac,” says the expert, whose personal favourite is the Old Fashioned, which perfectly accentuates all aromas of the cognac.
Some interesting summer cocktail suggestions include Martell Curious Halo and Martell Sidecar, which uses sparkling water, lemon and orange peels to give the drink a refreshing burst of citrus.
Table talk
Though a snifter of Martell XO could very well hold its own, we find that exclusive food pairings take the experience to a luxe level. “My favourite dish would be a lobster served with a fruity cognac. I also have a sweet tooth for chocolate as it pairs well with the Martell Cordon Bleu or Martell Chanteloup, especially with candied orange,” says Valtaud, adding that while cognac remains a symbol of refinement, craftsmanship and authenticity, more consumers are keen to discover it through various consumption occasions.
Having spent many nippy evenings nursing a delicious hot toddy concoction of cognac infused with spices, here I discover that this “French spirit should not be reserved only for winter sipping”.
Pairing a young cognac with a dish of grilled smoked duck, braised lamb shanks with barley risotto, Valtaud tells us that the youth of the V.S.O.P gives it a vigorous but smooth taste, where the plum aromas of the cognac and the plum-honey glaze of the duck complement one another just nicely.
Grilled tuna, seafood like shrimp and squids, snacks like mushroom bruschetta are dishes that have a delicate flavour, which complement the aromas of the drink. While suggesting a tandoori turkey as a spicy dish that is often paired with their iconic Martell Cordon Bleu, Valtaud is deferential when it comes to the XO.
“Martell XO’s power and finesse owing to the strength of the “eaux-de-vie” from the Grande-Champagne (the main growth area for XO) would find an exquisite echo along with Fine de Claire
oysters, scallops, blue lobster or langoustine. It also fits well fit with poultry, abalone or fresh strawberries for the romantic touch,” he offers. Back home, nibbling on candied orange with measured sips of the lustrous French spirit, I now believe that cognac could easily be the new celebratory pour instead of the predictable bubbly.
Valtaud’s cocktail pick
The Martell French Old Fashioned Recipe
• 2 parts Martell blue swift • 0.25 parts sugar cane syrup
• 2 dashes bitters
Mix all the above ingredients into a cocktail shaker/stirrer and pour into an unusually shaped glass to create a great speciality from an easy recipe.