The tropical pineapple isn’t commonly associated with preparations of fish, not unless you’re at home with exotic Cajun and Caribbean repasts. It isn’t easy, after all, to balance the sweet flesh of the fruit with the briny flavours one expects with seafood. But that’s where Executive Chef Ashutosh Nerlekar steps in, with his elegantly plated seared red snapper, garnished with little chunks of pineapple and black bean salsa, served on a bed of juicy jicama fries (the edible root of yam bean, a Central American staple) and topped off with a crisp potato tuille or chip. With each bite, the tender snapper meat turns out almost sweet, aided by the fruit and salsa, even as the fresh greens lend a delightful crunch, in addition to the potato chip.
From sea to shining sea
Chef Ashutosh’s red snapper is a part of the new seafood menu, themed ‘The Deep Sea Affair’, at the fine-dine restaurant Six ‘O’ One, at The Park Chennai, which goes on offer starting this Friday. At a preview degustation earlier this week, we got to sample a few more startling dishes on the new menu, including the grilled pomfret, served with a refreshing fennel asparagus salad, baby spinach, and star anise-shaped deep-fried treats of crisp black sticky rice. The highlight here, however, over the fabulously fresh fish and greens, is a savoury carrot purée drizzled along the sides of the dish, layering every spoonful with a warm, comforting after-taste.
Served with a choice of idiyappam, appam, or steamed rice, the dish of grouper in Chitoor milagu masala had us mopping up our plates with gusto, while the Goan Recheado prawns served with poi bread will gain approvals among patrons with a penchant for fiery fare. Another ever-popular offering, the Singapore chilli crab, finds many takers at the restaurant, informs Chef Ashutosh — with or without alcoholic beverages for accompaniment. As for his own culinary experiments, the chef frequently picks up inspiration from the early morning fish markets at the Kasimedu harbour in Chennai, he explains. The abundant variety of produce never fails to astound him, exclaims the chef, adding his intention of creating unique gourmet dishes for his discerning patrons.
Lobster for the soul
The chef’s piece-de-résistance for us was, of course, the Kung Pao lobster. (Diners get their choice of crustacean from a live tank, also for crabs.) Their new menu, explains Chef Ashutosh, is in keeping with the restaurant’s three-way offerings, covering European or continental, Asian and Indian cuisine.
Among other dishes, he also brings in Karuveppilai poondu (curry leaves and garlic) masala, a Mangalorean Mango dish, and a Kochi crab curry — served with a choice of steamed or jasmine rice, or vegetable noodles. Other Asian delights up his sleeve include the Cantonese galangal, Kung Pao with stir-fried vegetables, and Steamed lemongrass and scallion soya, while the continental section includes treats featuring a rare ‘Old Bay’-style seasoning, with a mesclun mix (young salad green leaves), Swiss chard, oranges and a walnut salad.
As far as unlikely seafood combinations go, Chef Ashutosh certainly has some mouth-watering fare on offer. It’s a good thing that our watchful attenders had us promptly kitted in bibs, to catch the drool falling off the corners of our lips.
The Deep Sea Affair at Six ‘O’ One is on from March 9-18. Available only for dinner. Meal for two
Rs 1,600.