Designer Pharrell Williams accepts applause after the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Men's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 20, 2026. Thomas Padilla
Fashion

Pharrell opens Vuitton’s monogram year with cinematic restraint

A controlled spectacle rooted in heritage and modern styling

The Associated Press

Pharrell Williams opened Louis Vuitton’s monogram anniversary year with a Fall–Winter 2026 menswear show that unfolded less like a traditional runway and more like a carefully composed film scene. Staged inside the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris, the presentation marked 130 years of the house’s most recognisable motif, approached with restraint rather than spectacle.

Inside Pharrell Williams’ filmic take on Louis Vuitton menswear

Guests were seated in a circle around a grassy runway, at the centre of which stood a glass-walled apartment — part bedroom, part display case. Models moved in and out of the structure as though crossing scenes in a film, their entrances unhurried and deliberate. The effect was quietly cinematic, blurring the line between fashion presentation and performance.

The front row reflected Vuitton’s current cultural reach, bringing together musicians, actors and online personalities. SZA, Usher, Future and Jackson Wang were among those in attendance, while BamBam of GOT7 made his runway debut, reinforcing the show’s intersection of fashion, music and global pop culture.

Sound played a significant role in shaping the mood. A live gospel choir and full orchestra performed from the balconies, lifting the presentation beyond a standard runway format. The music added emotional weight without overwhelming the clothes, creating a sense of ceremony that felt controlled rather than theatrical.

Models wear creations as part of the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2026-2027 Men's collection presented in Paris, Tuesday, Jan. 20, 2026.

On the runway, Williams stayed firmly within the visual language he has been building at Vuitton — familiar from a distance, richer in detail up close. The collection drew on 1970s ease, filtered through utility and travel references. Earthy autumn tones dominated: browns, greys, black, denim and cream, punctuated by soft bursts of bubblegum pink, baby blue and emerald green.

Silhouettes leaned relaxed and elongated. Trousers flared into gentle A-lines, while tailored suits were often layered with parkas, continuing Williams’ interest in high-low contrasts. Shirts shimmered subtly under the lights, while bows and jabot-style collars nodded to retro glamour without tipping into costume.

Utility details grounded the collection — toggles, zips, belts and hardware appeared throughout — while faux-fur collars added texture and warmth. Footwear came in the form of patent Oxford shoes, their gloss providing contrast against softer fabrics. A monogrammed puffer emerged as a clear statement piece, positioned as a modern heir to the house’s travel legacy.

There was also a deliberate sense of imperfection woven in. Wrinkled fabrics looked worn-in rather than careless, and silhouettes ranged from fitted knits to oversized tailored shorts, widening the collection’s visual rhythm. It was a reminder that Williams’ Vuitton is less about rigid polish and more about lived-in luxury.

The final visual cue came in the form of an Art Nouveau-style travel trunk rendered in stained glass and wheeled across the space — a playful but pointed reminder of the brand’s origins. It underscored the evening’s central idea: travel not just as movement, but as mythology.

In opening the monogram’s anniversary year, Williams avoided grand gestures. Instead, he offered a composed, cinematic meditation on Vuitton’s past and present — one that trusted mood, detail and storytelling to carry the message.

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