Eri silk explained: Why India’s Ahimsa silk is different 
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What is Eri silk, also known as the 'Ahimsa silk'?

Eri silk, known as the Ahimsa silk of India, is a warm, breathable and matte-textured silk spun from open-ended cocoons after the moth has emerged

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The Eri silk is derived from Samia ricini, aka the Eri silkworm. The name Eri is connected with the word used in Assamese to refer to the castor plant. It is unique in being spun, not reeled, silk because its cocoon has an open end. The moth comes out first, leaving behind fibres that are spun into thread.

What makes Eri silk the Ahimsa silk of India?

Eri silk receives its Ahimsa tag because of the manner in which it is produced. There is no death of the silkworm within the cocoon. It is allowed to hatch out of the cocoon and complete this process of life. The empty cocoon is later collected. It also receives its designation of peace silk due to the same process of production. Ahimsa refers to the Indian principle of non-violence.

How is Eri silk made?

Rearing of the silkworm forms the first step in Eri silk farming, a process referred to as Ericulture. The activity is commonly conducted indoors using trays or baskets, thus ideal for farmers who do not own vast land areas. Castor plants can be used as hedges or intercrops, and cassava provides food for humans and silkworms.

Eri silk has been cultivated for centuries in Northeast India, especially in Assam and Meghalaya

The Eri silkworm is multivoltine, which indicates that it can give birth to several generations within one year. In hot tropical weather, they have the ability to give birth to five to six generations per year. Their life cycle normally takes between 45 and 55 days. The hatching period of eggs takes seven to 10 days. When matured, it spins an oval cocoon in two to three days.

Now, after the moth has left the cocoon, it does not have one single strand inside anymore but rather a number of staple fibres. These fibres are combed out and spun into yarn in the same way that cotton or wool is spun into yarn. The yarn holds air and thus provides warmth without making the fabric heavy.

How is Eri silk different from other kinds of silk?

Women play a major role in making the Eri silk

Eri silk is characterized by a matte appearance rather than the highly lustrous look of mulberry silk. Eri silk is also heavier and warmer compared to mulberry silk, which is smoother and more delicate.

Eri feels smoother, and it is usually less itchy than silk. In comparison to cotton, it provides more warmth for its weight. It absorbs water without making you feel clammy and wrinkles less for most individuals. It is breathable and does not stick to your body.

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