Designer Anamika Ananth’s work draws deeply from her South Indian upbringing—steeped in Telugu and Tamil traditions—and her academic training at Parsons School of Design and the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York. Her practice is shaped by early memories of everyday beauty—jasmine being threaded, gardens tended to, and rituals passed down through generations.
This ethos comes alive in her debut collection, Penmai, which marks the launch of her eponymous label. A young, conscious, and culturally rooted brand, it celebrates womanhood in its most real, everyday form.
Rooted in the textures of South Indian life, the collection reimagines traditional textiles and adornments to honour shared rituals—jasmine-scented braids, sun-warmed balconies, and the quiet companionship of care.
Anamika speaks to Indulge about the essence of Penmai, how her cultural roots have shaped her design sensibilities, and more.
What does Penmai mean to you?
Penmai literally translates to “the act of being a woman.” To me, it’s expansive—a word that holds space for a multitude of experiences while staying grounded in shared culture. I’ve always been drawn to the beauty of the mundane—the kind that hides in plain sight. Penmai creates a space where women and their everyday lives are celebrated in all their quiet, powerful glory. Beyond goddesses and mothers, there are countless identities women inhabit, and this is my way of honouring those stories.
How did your cultural roots shape the identity of your label?
Honestly, it happened naturally. I deeply love where I come from, and that love shows in my work. My lens is “made in South India,” and I wouldn’t have it any other way.
Having grown up immersed in both Tamil and Telugu cultures, I’ve developed a deep respect for what distinguishes them—and what connects them. I also believe that when you truly understand your culture, you gain the freedom to reinterpret it with authenticity.
What inspired you to reinterpret traditional South Indian textiles and ceremonial codes through a modern lens?
When I returned from college and started exploring Indian textiles, I realised how much I hadn’t yet discovered. That journey began, quite naturally, with my mother’s wardrobe. It was also a beautiful way to bond—listening to her stories behind each lovingly preserved handloom. I believe that if we don’t reinterpret our indigenous textiles for future generations, we risk losing them. On a personal note, I’m fascinated by the histories behind symbols and cloth. Tracing the story of an object often reveals the story of a people—of migration, memory, and cultural dialogue.
Can you walk us through your design process for Penmai?
A collection usually begins with a question—one that won’t leave me alone until I address it. The Vaddanam Skirt, for example, came from my frustration with how South Asian women are often represented—either overlooked or portrayed only as goddesses. Even in feminist spaces, these narrow archetypes persist.
While exploring my mother’s and grandmother’s jewellery archives, I found coins adorned with images of Lakshmi. That inspired our signature medallions—except instead of goddesses, they feature women from my life: women I admire and love
Your use of metal embellishments is striking.
I think Indian dress feels incomplete without ornamentation. Gold and silver are woven not only into our history but into everyday life. I once read that Indian women collectively hold around 11 per cent of the world’s gold reserves. That felt significant, and worthy of homage. The metal accents in this collection draw from traditional jewellery forms like the kaasulu vaddanam and ghunghroos, reimagined with meaning and care.
How important is sustainability and conscious design to your brand ethos?
It’s core to our practice. We primarily use natural handloom textiles in heritage weave structures—like handloom cotton mangalgiri, silk-cotton mashru, ahimsa silk suiting, and a custom handloom Madras check made using lyocell. We also produce garments only on order, to minimise waste.
That said, a professor once told me, “The most sustainable thing to do is not to make anything new.” Then he added, “But if you must, make sure it says something worthwhile.” That idea has stayed with me—it’s about designing with both environmental and social intention.
Price starts at Rs 8,000. Available online.
Email: manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
X: @ManuVipin
For more updates, join/follow our WhatsApp, Telegram and YouTube channels.
https://whatsapp.com/channel/0029Vb677uz60eBXiDYheb0n