In a fitting tribute to the cultural tapestry of southern India, designer Anju Modi unveiled her latest collection, Virasat, in Chennai earlier this month. The show, presented in collaboration with Evolution at The Leela Palace, was more than just a fashion showcase—it was a poetic homecoming, a full-circle moment that brought the celebrated couturier back to the place where her journey with Indian textiles first began.
“I started my weaving career in 1987 and used to travel frequently to Madras,” she recalls, her voice tinged with nostalgia. “In those days, Madras was the epicenter of weaving clusters like Kanchipuram, Venkatagiri, and Narayanpet. I would stay in the city and journey into these villages to work with the artisans. The South’s cultural richness—the temples, the music, the coastal drives—shaped me in ways I’m only now fully understanding.”
Titled Virasat—meaning heritage in Hindi—the collection is deeply inspired by southern India’s legacy of handloom, architecture, and artistry. “It’s a love letter to the South,” Anju says simply. The silhouettes channel the grace of temple dancers and the quiet elegance of classical Carnatic music, while the textiles carry the weight of centuries of craftsmanship.
Anju has long been known for her thoughtful reinterpretation of Indian heritage. Her latest collection continues that legacy, bringing traditional handwoven textiles into a modern, wearable form. “I’ve used a lot of khadi, Salem cotton, and kanchipuram silks,” she says, adding that these have been layered and styled in ways that reflect contemporary lifestyles. A khadi jacket worn over a soft sari, or a pleated skirt paired with an embroidered dupatta—each look invites versatility.
The colour story in Virasat is evocative and warm—drawn from India’s spice box and the subtle hues of nature. “I take a lot of inspiration from Indian spices. There’s haldi (turmeric), kesari (saffron), laal mirch (red chilli), and a beautiful, soft pashmina tone, which is like the colour of raw wool from the sheep,” Anju explains. The palette is at once vibrant and grounded—gold blended with red, saffron with ivory, creating an earthy but celebratory aesthetic.
Muted tones, she notes, are now a preferred choice for brides. “Even brides today are moving toward softer tones like the pashmina shade. It’s not white, not grey—just a faint, serene whisper of a colour. And, of course, the timeless red and gold are still there, but they’re paired in new ways to feel both classic and fresh.”
Anju has always seen herself as a bridge between past and present, tradition and innovation. But with Virasat, she’s also making a strong statement on sustainability. “This time, I focused on layering—you’ll see a sari styled over a skirt with a jacket. But each piece is sold separately. So a customer can just pick one item and pair it with something they already own. It’s about thoughtful dressing.”
That, she explains, is part of a larger shift in how Indian fashion should evolve. “Our wardrobes are full, yet we often feel we have nothing to wear. I wanted to offer solutions—pieces that are flexible, re-wearable, and high on emotional and craft value.”
Jewellery and the journey within
To complete the visual narrative, Anju collaborated with VBJ, a brand known for its temple-inspired and Jadau jewellery. The pieces—designed in tandem with the garments—blended seamlessly with the silhouettes. “Their Raasika collection was especially in sync with Virasat. The jewellery was expansive, yet not overpowering—just like the garments. They were designed keeping the textiles in mind, and it showed on the runway.”
The synergy between the hand-embroidered fabrics and the heritage jewellery reflected the designer’s broader philosophy—luxury doesn’t need to scream—it whispers. “Opulence isn’t about heavy work or glitter,” she says. “True luxury is subtle. When an artisan spends days hand-weaving or embroidering, there’s a meditative energy in that act. That spirituality—the quiet power—it’s what makes a garment truly special.”
For Anju, presenting Virasat in Chennai wasn’t just about geographical relevance—it was emotional. “There’s a certain evolved sensibility in Chennai. The people here are understated, elegant. They value craft, not flash. It aligns beautifully with my design language, which has always favoured quiet luxury.”
She challenges the common stereotype that northern India is more fashion-forward than the south. “I would say Chennai is incredibly sophisticated. There’s a depth here—people are informed, they appreciate the nuances. They might not flaunt it, but their choices are thoughtful and refined.”
Away from the runway, Anju’s own dressing style is telling. “You’ll always find a white or black tunic in my wardrobe. I layer a sleeveless tunic with an overlay jacket, palazzos, and sometimes a red stole for drama. I keep it simple—but meaningful. I love khadi, cottons, handlooms. For me, fashion is about comfort, identity, and emotion,” she signs off.
Q: Sari or lehenga—what feels more powerful to you?
A: The sari. It carries centuries of culture, grace, and feminine strength. Draping a sari is like wrapping oneself in history—it’s deeply empowering.
Q: Favourite city for wedding inspiration?
A: Varanasi. It’s a living tapestry of tradition, textiles, rituals, and spiritual beauty. Every corner has a story, every weave a legacy.
Q: One emotion that best defines your collection Virasat?
A: Reverence. For our crafts, our roots, and the hands that carry forward the legacy.
Q: One timeless colour every bride should consider?
A: Ivory. It’s serene, regal, and transcends trends. It allows the craftsmanship to speak while embodying purity and grace.
Q: Heavy lehenga or lightweight layering—your pick for a modern bride?
A: Lightweight layering. Today’s bride wants freedom without losing tradition. A well-layered outfit can offer movement, versatility, and effortless elegance.
Price on request. Available online.
— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin