Parsi gara embroidery has always carried the weight of memory through threads that travelled from China to India with Persian traders, and settled into the wardrobes of Parsi women as heirlooms of extraordinary delicacy. In Ashdeen Lilaowala’s hands, this heritage craft is finding a new language of contemporary celebration wear.
With his new collection, Inheritance, Ashdeen pushes this historic needlework into contemporary wardrobes, asking: what does it mean for tradition to live, rather than merely survive?
The collection spans lehengas, jhablas, saris, kurta sets, waistcoats and separates for men and women, rendered in raw silks, crepes, and jacquards. The gemstone-inspired palette of tourmaline, rose quartz, ruby, garnet, amethyst, onyx, and pearl anchors the line in a code of permanence and value, evoking the visual weight of heirlooms while appealing to a generation of consumers seeking cultural authenticity.
For the couturier, the strategy is clear: elevate gara beyond preservation into a global conversation about craftsmanship, heritage and contemporary design. With Inheritance, he is creating a platform that positions Parsi embroidery as both culturally resonant and commercially scalable.
Ashdeen talks to Indulge about his earlier memories of Parsi gara embroidery, how he has dedicated his life to stewarding a living tradition, and what the future holds for his historic needlework.
What was your earliest memory of Parsi gara embroidery?
My mother’s black sari, a family heirloom hand-embroidered with golden yellow flowers by my father’s grandmother, is my earliest memory of the Parsi gara. Watching my mother drape it in the Parsi-Gujarati style was my first step into developing an aesthetic consciousness. My fascination with the gara only grew as I attended navjotes (initiation into the Parsi faith) and weddings and saw Parsi aunties dressed in these spectacular, intricately decorated saris.
What does inheritance mean to you personally? How did that meaning influence the concept behind this collection?
My creative journey has also been a very personal one. My most prized inheritance is this particular strand of the textile arts that connects me to my identity, my unique culture and my sense of purpose. Today, I see myself as a contemporary keeper of stories, not just limited to the realm of the Parsi gara but the larger Parsi culture too.
To me, the Parsi gara isn’t just beautiful, but it’s a living tradition I’ve dedicated my life to stewarding. This is what I wanted to express through this collection. And also think about what the inheritance and legacy I leave behind not just for the community and patrons but also for the craftspeople.
The silhouettes in the collection range from traditional saris to gender-neutral separates. How intentional was this diversity in format?
It was very intentional. Ease is a cornerstone of our brand. Our saris and garments, though intricately and heavily embroidered, are easy to wear and move in, easy to style. I wanted this collection to flow between the genders with the same kind of ease. It’s my interpretation of how the younger generations relate to heirlooms and craft.
Were there any particular archival pieces or motifs that served as anchors for this collection’s design language?
Zoroastrian symbol of life and eternity is the most celebrated motif known to Indian weavers. Our paisleys, topped up to the brim with tiny flowers, tumble down the lengths of trousers and decorate the pallus of saris. Butterflies that have represented longevity, metamorphosis, rebirth and ephemerality for centuries and across cultures, dot grids and flutter along hemlines. Birds of Paradise, with their glorious plumage symbolising dreams, healing and bravery, feed on flowers across scalloped necklines.
Gara embroidery is intricate and time-intensive. How do you approach the challenges of scaling such a detailed craft?
That’s the reason why we’re a slow fashion brand. I am not interested in following trends or the pace of the fashion industry for the sake of it. Having said that, I am proud that today, we work with over 300 craftspeople who lovingly hand-embroider every piece we create to heirloom standards. The scale is through the hands and hearts that make these pieces.
How much of the embroidery in this collection is hand-done?
100 per cent of it is hand-done. Handcrafted luxury is at the heart of our brand.
What do you see as the future of Parsi gara—both as a craft and as a cultural symbol?
As the world becomes more automated, more globalised, more advanced, people are also seeking out real craft made by hand, true stories they can get behind, art forms they can touch and feel. As we stand at the precipice of change, I am filled with hope for the future of Indian textiles and this niche art form.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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