Amit Aggarwal doesn’t do basics. Even his idea of everyday dressing comes engineered. Over the years, the Delhi-based couturier has built a reputation for sculpting polymers, bending Banarasi silks into futuristic forms, and treating textiles like architecture rather than ornament. Now, with the relaunch of AM:IT, his contemporary prêt line, Amit sharpens that vocabulary for real life.
This is couture thinking, recalibrated for the everyday. The couturier talks to Indulge about the relaunch, the first dedicated brand store, and the inspiration behind his breathtaking installation at the India Art Fair.
Why relaunch AM:IT now?
The relaunch emerged from a period of creative clarity. Over the years, both couture and prêt have evolved steadily, and I felt it was the right moment to articulate their relationship more distinctly. There has also been a shift in how clients engage with fashion today. They are looking for depth, longevity and design that fits naturally into their lives. This made the timing feel instinctive rather than reactive.
How has your understanding of prêt evolved since you first introduced it?
With time and experience, my understanding of prêt has become more structured. Today, it is about creating clothing that balances comfort, function, and strong construction. I have learned how important it is for everyday garments to carry design integrity while remaining practical and wearable
In its earlier phase, it was driven by instinct and exploration. It was about learning how to approach material differently and how to build confidence through design. With time and experience, my understanding of prêt has become more structured. Today, it is about creating clothing that balances comfort, function, and strong construction. I have learned how important it is for everyday garments to carry design integrity while remaining practical and wearable.
What were the non-negotiables, and what had to change?
The new AM:IT is less about making statements and more about building systems and pieces that can interact, evolve, and remain relevant over time
We retained the core DNA of our practice: material innovation, sculptural thinking and strong construction techniques. What needed redefinition was proportion, layering logic and adaptability. The new AM:IT is less about making statements and more about building systems and pieces that can interact, evolve, and remain relevant over time.
How do you translate couture into everyday wear without losing your design language?
Couture and prêt both emerge from the same creative philosophy. Couture is where ideas are explored in their most experimental and expressive form, while AM:IT is where those ideas are refined, edited and distilled. Here, elements are reinterpreted through surplus couture materials, modular forms and functional detailing. This allows the language to remain intact while becoming more fluid, intuitive, and wearable in everyday contexts.
Would you say this prêt relaunch is about accessibility, versatility, or lifestyle—or a balance of all three?
AM:IT is designed to be versatile and functional while maintaining our couture-led design values. It allows the wearer to engage with the brand in their everyday life, rather than only during milestone moments. In that sense, it becomes part of a lifestyle rather than a separate category.
What are the key silhouettes and hero pieces we’ll see this season?
The collection includes elevated day wear essentials, statement separates, dresses, and detachable styling elements. There is a strong focus on fluid silhouettes that can be adapted across different contexts. I am particularly excited about our modular bibs and layered components, which allow multiple ways of wearing and styling. These pieces reflect our interest in construction and transformation, and they encourage the wearer to participate in the design process.
Which materials define the collection this season?
The collection features upcycled Banarasi pieces, metallic overlays and our signature polymers. We continue to deconstruct and re-engineer textiles using couture-level techniques.
Your first dedicated store at Dhan Mill feels more experiential than traditional retail. How did you design the space?
The store is an extension of the brand’s philosophy and creative language. Rather than a conventional retail environment, we wanted to create a layered, immersive space that reflects ideas of structure, continuity, and exploration. It encourages engagement and reflection, much like the collections themselves.
How important was it to bring art into the retail space?
It was central to the concept. My practice has always existed at the intersection of disciplines. Fashion, art, and spatial design inform each other in my work. Bringing them together within the retail environment allows visitors to engage with the brand on a deeper, more intuitive level.
Your installation at India Art Fair used pre-loved Banarasi textiles. What sparked the idea, and how long did it take to realise?
My engagement with Banarasi textiles has developed over many years. I see them as living materials that carry accumulated knowledge, memory, and skill. The installation began with the idea of textiles as carriers of memory: layered, evolving, and continuous. Using preloved saris allowed us to extend their journey through contemporary form rather than treating them as archival objects. The work involved weeks of experimentation, draping, and structural development before reaching its final expression, all guided by years and years of research at our couture studio.
Do installations give you freedom that runway shows don’t?
Installations allow me to explore material, memory, and structure in a more conceptual way. They create space for reflection and experimentation and often inform how we approach both couture and prêt collections in the future.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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