Since launching his eponymous label in 2014, Puducherry-based designer Naushad Ali has remained committed to minimalism—think muted hues, lightweight cottons and modern designs. His design language has never been about chasing trends; instead, it was all about restraint, precision, and a focus on wearability. With his latest collection, created in collaboration with Chennai’s storied textile house Sundari Silks, Naushad extends this philosophy into new territory—saris rooted in Tamil heritage filtered through a contemporary lens.
“I was drawn to elements that have shaped Tamil visual culture for centuries,” says Naushad, who recently launched the collection in the city. “Traditional jewellery forms, the geometry and symbolism found in temple rituals, the poetry of the Sangam period, and the markings of the Panchangam. These references hold a quiet sense of ancestry and identity. But all used in a contemporary way,” explains Naushad who, through lightness, restraint, and thoughtful design, has designed saris that are so new and enchanting that they will lure the new generation to step into tradition without being weighed down by it.
The designer has not leaned into overt nostalgia, and the symbols he references are not reproduced literally; instead, they are distilled, abstracted, and reimagined through weave, scale, and texture. This sensitivity to balance—between past and present, ornament and restraint—has always been central to his work. “My design language has always leaned towards minimalism, restraint, and clarity,” he explains. “I wanted to bring that sensibility into the sari form without disturbing its essence. The challenge was to interpret these strong cultural symbols in a way that feels fresh, pared back, and wearable.”
To achieve this, Naushad turned to the looms of Banaras, drawn by their ability to produce clean structures, rich yet subtle textures, and refined tonal work. While the sari is deeply rooted in South Indian tradition, this cross-regional collaboration allowed him to explore new possibilities in finish and weight. The result is a collection that honours Tamil visual culture while carrying a distinctly contemporary silhouette—one shaped as much by colour and translucence as by motif.
A key intention behind the collection was accessibility, particularly for a younger generation of sari wearers. “I wanted the pieces to feel light, easy to drape, and versatile,” says Naushad. “Something that carries cultural weight without feeling formal or intimidating. The minimal aesthetic helps achieve that. It strips away the fear of ‘overdressing’ and lets the beauty of the weave stand on its own.”
This desire to demystify the sari—to make it an intuitive, everyday garment rather than a ceremonial one—runs through the collection. The saris are lighter, more fluid, and often translucent, allowing motifs to appear as if they float across the surface. Flowers, checks, and symbolic forms emerge gently rather than assertively, inviting closer inspection. “They’re translucent, which is rare in South India, and the intricate designs were executed beautifully by master weavers,” Naushad explains. “I wanted to remain authentic to Tamil tradition while introducing subtle, modern interpretations of motifs—like astrology charts and jewellery patterns—so the saris feel familiar yet new.”
The collaboration itself is rooted in a shared philosophy between Naushad’s studio and Sundari Silks. Both view heritage not as something static, preserved behind glass, but as something that must be lived and worn. “This collaboration is rooted in a shared belief—a deep respect for traditional textiles, hand weaving, and the cultural knowledge carried by these crafts,” says Naushad. “We value heritage not only in a traditional sense, but as something to be experienced in the present.”
For Manmohan Ram of Sundari Silks, the partnership began unexpectedly. “This happened a couple of years back,” he recalls. “I got to know Naushad Ali as a designer because my wife, during a Puducherry trip, took me to his shop. My wife thought it would be nice to get the shirts for me there. I saw his work—all the shirts were really nice, very different.” That initial encounter led to a menswear collaboration, and eventually to this sari collection—marking a new chapter and a long association for both brands.
The sari project was neither rushed nor simplified. “The collection took almost two years to complete,” says Naushad. “Any other client might have rushed it, but they were very patient and trusting.” For a designer who does not work within seasonal calendars, this slow, deliberate pace felt essential. “It generally takes time to create something from scratch and make it unique. I spent a lot of time on the floor studying previous work because I was honestly a bit intimidated. Rajaram, the owner, is someone with deep industry experience, a master weaver. So the work went for a review—that was the real test.”
Naushad presented over 22 design options, all of which were accepted. But the process did not end there. Originally conceived for Kanjeevaram weaving, the saris underwent further evolution. “Due to timelines and finishes, we wanted to make them wearable for younger generations too,” he explains. “We realised the original design would be heavy in appearance and weight, so we adapted.” This led to an experimental mixing of regional influences—South Indian checks combined with Bengal weaves, for instance—highlighting shared vocabularies across India’s weaving traditions.
“I’ve always mixed techniques across India in my work,” Naushad says. “This created a new patterning style that nobody has seen before. Even experienced clients will feel these are fresh designs.” The challenge, he admits, was emotional as much as technical: making saris that resonate equally with mothers and daughters. The answer lay in subtlety—familiar forms reinterpreted through scale, transparency, and colour.
Colour, in fact, plays a defining role in the collection. There are two distinct palettes: one that preserves iconic South Indian tones such as turquoise and emerald green, and another that introduces unexpected pairings like mint green with deep red. Some saris feature as many as six colour variations, offering wearers a sense of choice and personal expression without overwhelming the design.
True to form, Naushad remains uninterested in the pace-driven model of fashion. His brand does not release seasonal collections, nor does it subscribe to the idea of constant novelty. “We don’t follow seasonal fashion,” he says. “We work quietly from Pondy. I believe good work anywhere gets recognised now. Seasonal labels are unnecessary. We prefer timeless designs.” His conviction is reinforced by the longevity of his own work—pieces created eight years ago continue to be worn and appreciated.
For Naushad, Indian consumers are particularly attuned to this philosophy. “Indian consumers are accustomed to cherishing pieces for a long time,” he says. “We focus on quality, not speed.” This collection, entirely weave-based, reflects that ethos. While there was no block printing on silk this time, he hints at future experimentation and ongoing collaborations already in discussion.
As he prepares for his next collection—set to be shown in Europe and Tokyo—Naushad reflects on his position in the industry. No longer a new name, but not yet bound by expectations, he finds creative freedom in this in-between space. “It allows us to experiment and surprise clients,” he says. “For example, we’ve done block printing on silk velvet, which was unusual but successful.”
In many ways, this sari collection embodies that very idea of being in between—between regions, generations, tradition and modernity.
Prices start at Rs 28,000. Available at Sundari Silks.
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