While nature remains a constant inspiration for celebrated couturier Rahul Mishra, this season he contemplated a deeper, spiritual connection with it in his couture festive line Nargis that just got unveiled at Hyundai ICWxFDCI. The collection highlights the designer’s intimate bond with nature and its various experiences.
“The most intricate collection representing our atelier, Nargis, just like the namesake flower, is our annual expedition of Indian festive couture. Realised over eight months with more than 1,200 embroidery artisans who associate with our brand in various villages across the country, the collection modernises hundreds of ancient, traditional hand-embroidery techniques,” says Rahul as he shares details of the collection in this exclusive chat with us.
Tell us all about Nargis.
This collection is an ode to a more spiritual connection to nature, supported by my anecdotes, including caressing the flowers and fruits in a garden and listening to the birds chirping. It features vibrant surfaces adorned with aari thread work, bugle beads, kundan, various kinds of rhinestone crystals, glass beads, freshwater pearls, sequins, and nakshi pita work, on rich tones such as navy blue, ruby, chartreuse, and fiery red pomegranate.
Like an escapist’s dream, this collection articulates visuals from the window of a home, overlooking a vastness of verdure, swelled with florals, birds, and fruits. A garden being watched from a cosy room—a space filled with love and comfort—the embroidery artworks from this collection are real anecdotes from life.
How was the Paris Couture Week experience for you?
Paris has always felt like a second home to me. Presenting at Paris Haute Couture Week is exhilarating, and I'm grateful for the overwhelming love and support we received from all corners of the world post-show. The collection we presented in Paris was born from an intangible energy an aura, channelled by our team into tangible couture pieces, pushing the limits of our imagination and artistry. It's always a privilege to highlight exquisite Indian craftsmanship in Paris, as we continue to grow with each collection presented at Haute Couture Week.
How do you look at Bollywood stars becoming showstoppers instead of supermodels?
India is heavily Bollywood-centric, and the concept of the showstopper is unique to India, where a celebrity walks for the designer. It is a great marketing strategy as long as the muse-whether an actor or supermodel, justifies the story one wishes to convey. For our showcase of Nargis, our dear friend Lisa Ray graced the runway and opened the show with the live music of Afreen Afreen, evoking a sense of nostalgia and escapism. The song and the presence of Lisa captured the feeling we intended to bring a sense of an escapist's dream, with the garments depicting visuals of a window overlooking a lush expanse filled with florals, birds, and fruits.
Creating a sensory experience for patrons makes a deeper impact than merely having a celebrity or supermodel walk for the sake of buzz and marketing purposes.
Your winter party wardrobe must-haves?
My winter party wardrobe must-haves are any classic pieces that provide comfort to the wearer. It is important to wear silhouettes that you are most comfortable in and that provide warmth. The outfit should not wear you; rather, you should wear the outfit. It is essential that your look complements your smile and allows for fuss free movement.
For instance, you can't go wrong with a pair of comfortable and well-fitted Wellington boots, a classic trench that can be restyled for various occasions.
What inspires you?
I am extremely curious and a keen observer of my surroundings. I find myself engrossed in observing people, appreciating various crafts, delving into historical narratives of different cultures, and understanding the intricate nuances behind each tradition. Travel, whether for business or leisure, is endlessly stimulating as every destination has its unique offerings. Even revisiting a place multiple times reveals new layers and perspectives. My travels often have a profound impact on my creative process, and nature remains my constant muse.
Who's your favourite fashion icon?
My favourite icons include Rekha, Zeenat Aman, Angelina Jolie, Salma Hayek, and Anne Hathaway. Not only are they great fashion icons but possess strong yet charming personalities.
Upcoming collections?
Our vision for the next five years is to elevate our brand to a global level, standing among the world's aspirational brands. We intend to roll out ready-to-wear menswear, womenswear, and accessories such as bags and shoes.
Also, our retail footprint will expand dramatically in the next few years, with multiple large-format retail outlets in India, Europe, the Middle East, and the US. We are nurturing both our brands, Rahul Mishra and AFEW Rahul Mishra, to establish the latter as a powerhouse that offers comfortable, versatile, and affordable designs.