Couturier Amit Aggarwal’s Antevorta explores fundamental concepts of time through five distinct identities
Couturier Amit Aggarwal’s latest collection, Antevorta (denoting Goddess of future in ancient Roman religion) takes a deep dive into the profound connection between time and the universe, underscoring how nothing exists outside its influence. The edit, which was unveiled at the recently concluded Hyundai ICWxFDCI, is a continuation of his label’s ethos of creating garments that not only tell a story, but also challenge the norms of fashion through intricate detailing and bold silhouettes.
Taking inspiration from the tiniest elements that define our world, this conceptual line merges philosophical, mythological, religious, scientific, and cosmological influences and explores the concept of time through five distinct perspectives namely, nowness, linearity, eternity, conjurer, and balance. The talented designer takes us through this edit with an exclusive shoot.
You have always been inspired by science and meld it with arts to create very futuristic pieces that harp back to the past. How has your design philosophy evolved over decades?
Our design philosophy centres on the fusion of science and art, creating pieces that reflect a dialogue between the past and the future. Initially, our focus was on exploring textile manipulation and form, often drawing inspiration from nature and architecture. Over time, this has evolved to include advanced technologies and sustainable practices, allowing for a more responsible approach to fashion.
We strongly believe that fashion is a powerful medium of storytelling. Each piece we create serves as a narrative that connects the wearer to the broader human experience, transcending temporal boundaries. Antevorta, too, explores fundamental concepts of time through five distinct identities while outlining arguments from five schools of thought parallel to the concepts of time.
How do you ensure that each of your couture designs are distinctly different in form and structure?
We believe in the power of storytelling through fashion. Each collection is conceived with a distinct narrative in mind, allowing me to explore different themes and concepts that drive the variety in form and structure. This narrative-driven approach ensures that every piece not only stands out aesthetically, but also resonates with a deeper meaning, making each design a unique expression of art and innovation.
What inspires you?
I draw inspiration from a wide array of sources, including nature, technology, architecture, and even scientific concepts, which allows me to approach each piece with a fresh perspective. By experimenting with unconventional materials and advanced techniques, we are able to push the boundaries of traditional fashion design. A strong emphasis is laid on the structural integrity and functionality of the garment too and collaboration with skilled artisans plays a crucial role to translate complex ideas into tangible designs.
How do you incorporate sustainability?
It is a core aspect of my design philosophy. From the very beginning, I have been committed to creating fashion that respects and preserves the environment and it’s reflected in our choice of materials and techniques used. We extensively use recycled and upcycled materials, transforming waste into beautiful, wearable art and work with recycled plastic and metallic polymers, integrating them seamlessly into our designs. Each piece is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring it can be cherished and worn for years.
Is bourgeois elegance back?
It has always evolved and today, we see a revival of this classic style, infused with modern twists that resonate with contemporary tastes. At its core, bourgeois elegance embodies timeless appeal, sophistication and meticulous attention to detail. We blend traditional craftsmanship with innovative materials and techniques, which allows us to create garments that honour the past while embracing the future. For this edit, we have combined vintage fabrics like banarasi with modern methods to create elegant and avant-garde pieces.
Your personal favourites when it comes to colours?
I am constantly drawn to shades evoking a sense of depth, complexity and emotion. Metallic shades like silver, gold, and bronze are personal favourites because they convey both modernity and timeless elegance. These hues reflect light beautifully, adding a dynamic quality to the garments that can transform with movement and perspective. I also love luxe jewel tone like emeralds, sapphires and rubies. They carry a sense of history and grandeur and can yet be interpreted in contemporary ways. Ultimately, my colour choices are guided by the story I wish to tell through each collection.
Do you feel designers in India are relying more on star power and bling to garner attention on social media?
The approach to garnering attention on social media varies widely across the industry. While some designers may rely on star power and bling to capture attention, others choose to focus on substance and creativity. The essence of fashion lies in storytelling and craftsmanship. It’s about creating pieces that resonate with the wearer on a deeper level, beyond fleeting trends and glamour. While social media can amplify our reach, it’s crucial to use this platform responsibly
How much importance do you attach to the fashion verdicts meted out by influencers and critics on social media?
Honestly, I value the diverse perspectives and feedback from influencers and critics and everyone else on social media, as they play a significant role in shaping contemporary fashion discourse. Their opinions provide valuable insights into how our creations are perceived and appreciated. However, my primary focus remains on maintaining authenticity and staying true to my design philosophy.
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How do you feel Gen-Z perceives fashion?
For the Gen-Z, fashion is more than just clothing — it’s a powerful form of self-expression and a cultural statement. They are incredibly conscious of sustainability and ethics, demanding transparency and accountability from brands. They value individuality and authenticity, gravitating towards brands that align with their personal values and beliefs. The digital fluency has made them more informed and discerning as consumers. They are not just passive recipients of trends but active participants in shaping them too, often blending vintage finds with modern streetwear or high fashion pieces.
Your personal fashion choices?
For me, the right set of foot - wear — especially sneakers — and stylish eyewear can make all the difference. My wardrobe reflects a blend of traditional and contempo - rary influences and I prefer versatile pieces. I gravitate towards pieces that balance classic silhouettes with modern twists, reflecting my appreciation for crafts - manship and innovation.
I believe in the power of clothing to tell a story, so I often choose garments with unique narratives or cul - tural significance. I love versatile, monochromatic pieces, clean lines, and rich textures that add depth to an outfit. I value comfort and functionality without compromising on style.
How do you see menswear evolving over the years?
Menswear has undergone a remarkable evolution over the years, marked by a sig - nificant shift towards bold - ness and fashion-forward thinking. Men are increas - ingly embracing diverse styles and expressing them - selves through clothing in ways that were once consid - ered unconventional.
One of the most notable changes is the blurring of boundaries between formal and casual wear, which has been facilitated by a growing acceptance of gender-neutral fashion and a broader societal openness towards individual expression. Designers are exploring innovative cuts, textures and materials traditionally associated with womenswear, further expanding the possibilities for menswear aesthetics.
Gowns are increasingly getting popular among women again. Could you set the rules for the same and what to choose for which event?
Gowns are an exquisite choice for various occasions, offering elegance and versatility to the wearer. When selecting a gown for an event, it’s essential to consider the occasion’s formality and cultural context. For formal galas or weddings, opt for floor length or trailing silhouettes in rich fabrics with embellishments to exude sophistication and glamour.
For cocktail parties or receptions, go for sleeker, more streamlined designs in flowy fabrics that allow for ease of movement. These gowns can feature stylish details such as off-shoulder necklines, subtle draping or delicate beadwork to strike the right balance between elegance and comfort. Casual events or daytime occasions call for lighter, more relaxed gowns styled with simpler embellishments or prints, reflecting a more effortless yet chic aesthetic.
Your favourite fashion icon?
Roy Halston Frowick, the man who changed the face of fashion forever with his minimalist and ele g ant designs in the ’70s. He practically revolutionised American fashion with his use of luxurious fabrics, clean lines and a focus on ready-to-wear clothing, impacting the worlds of art and culture.