Fashion is often equated with luxury and spectacle, but Niti Bothra prefers to whisper. Her latest collection, Vaayu, under Label Niti Bothra, takes its name from the Sanskrit word for air — unseen, quietly powerful. “Air is something you cannot see, but you feel,” Niti says. “And when you feel it on your body, it is gentle—almost like it becomes a part of you.”
That sentiment shapes every garment in Vaayu. “It was inspired by summer and by nature. The feeling of lightness and comfort, that’s what I wanted to translate into the garments. When you wear these clothes, they should feel effortless, soft, and natural. The silhouettes are easy. Even when the embroidery is detailed—especially in the luxury line—the garment never feels heavy on the body. It may look rich, but it doesn’t weigh you down. That balance was very important to me,” says Niti.
Translucent silk, chanderi checks, organza, and fluid silk weaves form the base. They are breathable, summer-conscious, and tailored to Indian climates. The palette stays restrained: sky blue, blush pink, buttercream, sage.
Craft is the soul of the collection. Niti has long been drawn to heritage embroidery—not the overtly metallic, high-shine versions dominating occasionwear today, but the older, painstaking techniques that demand time and rare skill.
For Vaayu, she reinterprets traditional zardosi. Gold zari and maal give way to pearls, salma, dabka, glass beads, resham, and tikkis. “These techniques are complicated,” she says. “Not many artisans can do them anymore. The collection involved skilled craftspeople, including artisans from Kolkata villages trained in intricate methods like machhli kata and salma gith. Unfortunately, many younger generations are not continuing in this craft, so preserving it feels even more important,” she shares.
Importantly, when she mentions machine embroidery, she clarifies: this is not computer-generated repetition. “I don’t believe in producing hundreds of identical pieces,” she says firmly. The process remains largely hand-driven; even when assisted by hand-operated machines, each garment is finished manually.
Before founding her label in 2015, Niti spent over a decade as international cabin crew with Saudi Arabian Airlines. She travelled extensively, absorbing visual cultures across the Middle East and Europe.
“I grew up in a very culturally rich environment. My father was in the armed forces, so we moved across different states in India. I saw diverse traditions—from Kashmir to the Northeast—and those visuals stayed with me. Later, I flew with Saudi Arabian Airlines. That exposure to Middle Eastern and European fashion deeply influenced me,” recalls Niti, who has no formal design training. “I approach clothing instinctively,” she admits. But that instinct, sharpened by years of observing how women live, travel, sit, move, and celebrate, has become her greatest strength.
Until recently, the brand focused largely on prêt. With Vaayu, Niti strengthens her luxury line. It is more detailed, more time-intensive, and more layered. But even at its most ornate, the philosophy remains unchanged—longevity over trend.
“If you buy one of my pieces, you will wear it 20 to 30 times, if not more,” says Niti. And that is perhaps the most radical statement of all in an era of disposable occasionwear. Her garments are designed for small gatherings and festive evenings, from intimate celebrations to larger moments. They are complete looks, but adaptable.
Looking ahead, she plans to expand her reach and deepen her bridal offerings. “We launch a minimum of three collections a year— Spring/Summer, Pre-festive, and Festive. I would like to increase the brand’s reach, especially for our prêt line, which is very versatile. You can wear it to work, for small gatherings, or even at home when hosting,” she adds.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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