In an era where Varanasi handlooms strive to reclaim their legacy, November Noon emerges as a modern custodian of this rich craft. Founded to preserve heirloom weaving while innovating with contemporary techniques and materials, the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, Umbre, marries metallic jacquards, engineered yarns, and Art Deco-inspired geometry into striking, handcrafted textiles. We speak to the founder Deepak Shah, and the creative head Priyanka Kaul, for more details about the new collection.
What does Umbre represent conceptually, and how is this idea translated through the collection?
Priyanka: Umbre is the slow movement of shadows through time. In architecture, this refers to how a building’s form evolves as the sun moves; in this collection, it reflects our fascination with the transient nature of light and the depth of darkness defined by the Art Deco period. We translated this by using fabrics that change appearance when moving, textured silks and geometric jacquard weaves and differential weaves to create drama by casting ‘shadows’ on the body. The silhouette continues this narrative to mimic bold movement through shape and ends with sheen finishes.
How does the collection reinterpret Varanasi’s traditional silk weaving techniques?
Priyanka: Traditional Varanasi weaving is often richly ornate. Umbre brings forward sharper lines, chevrons, and stepped zari patterns, drawing on the grid-like structure of metallic jacquard weaving to present the craft in a more contemporary, global context.
Please elaborate on the global creative collaboration behind November Noon.
Priyanka: Our identity is defined by a global design approach with a local soul. The fabric is born in the artisan clusters of India (Varanasi), where the soul of the material is created. However, the application of this fabric is shaped by patternmakers and designers in fashion capitals like London, Paris, and Milan. This collaboration ensures the garments have the impeccable construction and tailoring standards of international luxury fashion while retaining the heritage integrity of Indian handloom. It bridges the gap between the loom and the modern urban wardrobe.
What challenges do Varanasi handloom artisans currently face?
Deepak: Power looms can replicate handwoven designs quickly and cheaply, steadily overtaking the handloom market and reducing opportunities for artisans whose livelihoods have been built over generations. This has also made handloom a less economically attractive choice for younger artisans, despite it traditionally being a skill passed down within families. Our response has been to innovate at a slower pace, for the existing artisans by developing new weaves that remain rooted in traditional techniques while allowing the fabric to evolve. By introducing contemporary textures and weights that sit comfortably within existing skill sets, we work to build sustained demand for handwoven textiles, helping the craft remain relevant and economically viable. This is supported through ongoing skill-building, close collaboration with artisan communities, and engagement with broader support systems.
How does Umbre balance structured tailoring and contemporary aesthetics?
Priyanka: Traditional handloom silk is designed to be draped. To make it suitable for structured tailoring, we have adjusted the weight and density of fabrics so they can hold shape. Despite the modern cut, the weaving technique remains purely traditional and uses century-old jacquard, hand knotting and zari work.
Tips to style the collection...
Priyanka: Allow light to dance across the silk through sparkling accents and jewellery. Let the strong silhouette speak for itself, pairing brooches with blazers, while using your shoes to add a playful counterpoint.