Indian couture is having a quieter revolution. While intricate craftsmanship and elaborate embellishments remain at its heart, today's occasion wear is no longer about garments that are admired from afar but endured through a celebration. Brides want to dance, wedding guests want to move with ease, and women increasingly expect their couture to live beyond a single event. At SHOW SHAA, founder and creative director Ashima Kumar Sood sees this shift as an opportunity to design for the many facets of the modern woman.
Why comfort is becoming the new luxury in couture fashion
Her latest couture capsules, Valley of Love and Luminara, capture these contrasting yet complementary moods. Though launched separately, Ashima describes them as two expressions of the same personality.
"A woman can be incredibly soft and romantic, but she can also be fearless and confident. These collections celebrate both those sides," she says.
If Valley of Love is a love letter to nature, Luminara is its after-dark counterpart. The former unfolds through mirror-kissed kurta sets, floral corsets, flowing tulles and bloom-laden skirts in butter yellow, blush pink and meadow green—colours that evoke garden celebrations and leisurely daytime festivities. Luminara, meanwhile, embraces sculpted drapes, satin skirts, voluminous lehengas and shimmering capes enriched with cut dana embroidery, holographic sequins and handcrafted appliqués that catch the light with every movement.
Yet despite their differing aesthetics, both collections are united by the brand's signature language of floral appliqué, delicate craftsmanship and lightweight construction.
Comfort, Ashima explains, has quietly become one of the defining luxuries in contemporary couture.
Instead of relying on heavy embroidery alone, SHOW SHAA uses organza appliqué, Japanese cut dana embellishments and intricate cutwork to achieve visual richness without weighing down the garment.
That philosophy extends beyond construction to versatility. Occasion wear is increasingly expected to work harder, with clients looking for pieces that can be styled across multiple celebrations.
"We consciously design separates that can be mixed and matched. A blouse can be paired with another skirt, or a jacket can be styled differently for another occasion. Women want outfits that stay relevant long after the wedding."
The changing nature of celebrations has also influenced how Ashima approaches colour. While pastels continue to dominate daytime festivities—particularly haldi ceremonies, bridal brunches and intimate garden weddings—she believes another classic is quietly reclaiming its place.
"Red is definitely coming back. Almost every bride is asking for it again."
Perhaps the biggest shift, however, lies in the couture customer herself.
Ashima has witnessed a noticeable change over the past decade. Corporate professionals, entrepreneurs and women from smaller cities are investing in handcrafted occasion wear, driven by both greater financial independence and a desire to celebrate themselves.
"Women are earning well today and they're choosing to spend on themselves. Weddings are still important, but so are festivals, family celebrations and social occasions."
The growing appetite for thoughtful dressing has also reshaped conversations around luxury. While fashion continues to debate quiet luxury versus maximalism, Ashima believes true luxury has little to do with logos or labels.
"Your personality should speak, not the brand you wear. A garment should become part of your story—something you love, wear again and eventually pass on," she adds.
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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