Somewhere between sharp silhouettes and a palette of quiet neutrals lies the design world of Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna. Often credited with pioneering contemporary prêt menswear in India, the designer duo have spent over two decades shaping a signature aesthetic defined by structure, restraint and precision. Over the years, their label has expanded into womenswear as well, with admirers including Katrina Kaif and Priyanka Chopra, among others.
Longevity over speed: The designers on building an enduring label
Their latest offering, Abyssal–Spring Summer Couture 2026, draws inspiration from the mysterious depths of the ocean. Translating that atmosphere into couture, the designers construct garments where structure leads the narrative and embellishment feels almost submerged within the fabric.
For Rahul Khanna, however, the inspiration was never meant to be interpreted literally. “Nature has always inspired us, and many of our recent campaigns are testament to that,” he says. “With Abyssal, that love continues. But we didn’t want to interpret the elements too literally. For the storyline, we looked at our own lived experiences and remembered what it feels like to be underwater and watch light move above you. That memory translated into the visual story for Summer Couture 2026.”
Sequins were layered in a way that almost mimicked fish scales for a subtle yet textural finish. We also used lightweight fabrics like tulle, especially in the womenswear, so light could pass through the garment. That transparency made the ornamentation feel woven into the piece rather than placed on top of it
The imagery of light filtering through water became a guiding idea—not only for the campaign but also for the garments themselves. Fabrics appear layered with a sense of depth, while embellishments glimmer subtly rather than announcing themselves immediately.
There is also a contemplative stillness running through the collection—a mood that feels almost meditative in contrast to the hyper-visibility of today’s fashion landscape. When asked whether this calmness is a response to the constant noise of social media, Rahul pauses before reflecting thoughtfully.
“Perhaps subconsciously, yes,” he says. “But more than reacting to the noise around us, the collection reflects where we are in our own journey. We’ve come into our own and there’s a quiet confidence and ease in the way we design now. It’s a very centred place to create from. We trust our instinct and no longer design for validation. When our clients respond with that same trust, everything else fades into the background. That mental space has definitely shaped the campaign as well.”
This sense of confidence is visible in the way ornamentation has been handled in Abyssal. Instead of relying on heavy embroidery or overt embellishment, the designers allow textures to emerge slowly across the surface of the garments. Sequins are arranged almost like scales; pearls appear embedded within delicate patterns that seem to shift with movement.
“We achieved that effect by leaning towards tone-on-tone embroidery so it would blend effortlessly,” Rahul explains. “Sequins were layered in a way that almost mimicked fish scales for a subtle yet textural finish. We also used lightweight fabrics like tulle, especially in the womenswear, so light could pass through the garment. That transparency made the ornamentation feel woven into the piece rather than placed on top of it.”
The collection also explores the symbolism of the veil—an element that has become increasingly relevant in contemporary bridal fashion. Rather than treating it simply as a traditional accessory, the designers reinterpret it as a theatrical and emotional device.
Back then, if it wasn’t heavy, it wasn’t considered luxurious. We took a risk by working with geometric patterns and metallic textures that were not the norm. People initially asked us where the ‘work’ was because they were used to seeing every inch covered in embroidery
“For us, the veil depicts anticipation,” Rahul says. “There is a powerful psychology in controlling what is revealed and when. Modern brides want to orchestrate a moment without hiding. Her entry creates a sense of longing and build-up, which makes the reveal more impactful.”
In many ways, he notes, the veil has evolved into a modern reinterpretation of the dupatta. “It becomes lighter, more fluid and emotionally relevant,” he explains. “In many ways, it bridges East and West—honouring tradition while allowing the bride to command her own narrative.”
Designing a couture collection that spans both menswear and womenswear presents its own set of creative challenges. Yet for the designer duo, cohesion emerges naturally through shared visual codes.
“Certain elements remain constant across the collection,” Rahul says. “The colour stories, the use of pearls, crystals and tone-on-tone embroidery—these connect the pieces. But the expression differs between menswear and womenswear.”
In menswear, the silhouettes remain structured and grounded in what Rahul describes as “a modern, new-age masculinity.” Womenswear, on the other hand, introduces softness and fluidity. “We’ve allowed more movement there,” he explains. “Tulle and lighter fabrics let light pass through, creating softness and dimension, whereas the menswear relies on solid fabrics and deeper tones with a subtle sheen.”
Over the years, the designers’ understanding of glamour has also evolved. Early in their career, glamour was often defined by spectacle—the kind that dominated fashion weeks and red carpets. Today, their perspective feels more nuanced.
“Our definition of glamour has become more expansive,” Rahul reflects. “Someone who knows themselves well and feels confident in their choice of outfit is glamorous. Someone who is traditionally beautiful is glamorous too. As designers, we accept that glamour can mean different things to different people.”
This philosophy explains why even their couture capsules feature varied silhouettes. “For example, Abyssal includes a traditional draped sari alongside another sari with a contemporary corded pallu,” he says. “We like offering multiple interpretations so clients can choose what resonates with them.”
Looking back at their early years in the industry, Rahul admits that the duo quickly realised they had discovered something distinctive in their design language.
“Very soon after starting out, we realised we had our design language right,” he says. “Our basics about structure and contemporary formalwear were clear. That clarity helped us stay consistent.”
What they misjudged, however, was the pace at which success might arrive. “We probably got it wrong by thinking growth had to happen quickly,” he admits. “Over time we’ve realised that longevity matters far more than speed. Building something enduring takes patience, and that perspective only comes with experience.”
One of the biggest risks the duo took early on was redefining what luxury eveningwear could look like. In the late 1990s and early 2000s, couture was often equated with weight and density—garments saturated with embroidery and ornamentation.
“Back then, if it wasn’t heavy, it wasn’t considered luxurious,” Rahul recalls. “We took a risk by working with geometric patterns and metallic textures that were not the norm. People initially asked us where the ‘work’ was because they were used to seeing every inch covered in embroidery.”
After more than two decades of collaboration, the creative partnership has evolved into something almost intuitive. “Our instincts are usually in sync now,” Rahul says. “We’ve both learned to set aside personal biases and focus on strengthening the collection by leaning on each other’s strengths.”
The modern Indian client, he observes, is more intentional than ever before. “They understand tailoring, fabric fall and construction,” Rahul says. “They’re not just looking for traditional wedding outfits anymore. They want pieces that reflect their personality.”
That evolving sensibility has also elevated Indian menswear on the global stage. “Indian menswear is having a real moment right now,” Rahul says. “Structured drapes and bandhgalas are increasingly being recognised as sophisticated forms of formalwear.”
If the designers were launching their label today, Rahul believes the strategy might be different in certain ways. “We’d probably adopt a digital-first approach because it’s easier to reach audiences globally,” he says. “But we’d still be drawn to structure and architecture—designing pieces that can be lived in for years.”
Price on request. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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