“All the variety, all the beauty of life is made up of light and shadow.” The Leo Tolstoy quote sets the tone for textile and clothing label from Delhi, Amrich’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection—an exploration of contrast, perception, and craft. Amrich, founded by Richard Pandav and Amit Vijaya—both graduates of the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad—is rooted in the idea of “hand-crafted luxury.” Working with artisans across India, the label creates small-batch collections using natural fabrics and time-honoured techniques, with a focus on longevity, craft, and conscious design. We speak to designer Amit Vijaya about the ideas shaping their latest collection Of Light & Shadow, their signature shibori, and the philosophy of hand-crafted luxury.
What sparked the idea behind Of Light & Shadow?
We were looking at themes that explore contrast. We find beauty in both light and shadow—it’s not that one exists without the other. Like good and evil, you need contrast to understand either. That Tolstoy quote really stayed with us, and we wanted to see how we could translate that into textiles and garments.
How did you bring this idea into the collection?
We worked with handwoven textiles that are graphic but still subtle. You’ll see fluid white silks alongside stark black-and-white stripes and checks that merge into greys. It’s about creating something that feels strong visually, but still very soft and wearable, especially for the Indian summer.
When we were working with the idea of light and shadow, the Rorschach inkblot tests came to mind. These abstract forms that people interpret differently—it connects to the light and shadow within each of us. So we made the shibori more abstract, less defined. The idea is that each person sees something different in the pattern
Your signature shibori takes on a new dimension this season. Tell us more.
When we were working with the idea of light and shadow, the Rorschach inkblot tests came to mind. These abstract forms that people interpret differently—it connects to the light and shadow within each of us. So we made the shibori more abstract, less defined. The idea is that each person sees something different in the pattern.
There’s a strong play of contrast in the silhouettes as well.
Yes, we’ve explored contrast across everything—sheer and opaque, matte and shine, structure and fluidity. Even within the textiles, you’ll see structured grids with softer, more organic forms breaking through. It’s always about balance.
The collection also blends Eastern and Western influences. How do you approach that?
We’ve always drawn from both. We study classic silhouettes—Oriental and Occidental—and then reinterpret them for today. The idea is to create something that feels familiar, almost nostalgic, but still new and relevant. Women today are global in their outlook, so the clothing should reflect that.
Craft remains central to Amrich. How do you work with artisans?
Everything is developed in collaboration with artisans across India. Most of our textiles are handwoven, and our shibori is entirely hand-done. We’ve been working with this technique for over 20 years now. The sampling starts with us, and then we train our artisan groups to take it forward.
How would you describe your approach to sustainability?
We prefer to call ourselves a conscious brand. Sustainability is a big word, especially in fashion. For us, it’s about being mindful—using natural fibres, not overproducing, and creating garments that last. These are not pieces you wear once and discard; they’re meant to stay in your wardrobe for years.
What defines your idea of hand-crafted luxury?
It’s about creating something with care—from the textile to the finishing. Everything is made in small batches, and a lot of hand skill goes into each piece, from the weaving to the final detailing. Each garment is meant to feel special, like it’s been made with attention and intention.
What do you hope people take away from this collection?
That sense of duality—that beauty exists in contrast. And also that clothing can be both thoughtful and easy. We want people to connect with the pieces in their own way.
Price on request. In stores at Collage, Rutland Gate, Chennai. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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