Dinner at Up North begins on a high note, quite literally. Set inside the glass house atop Pullman, the restaurant looks out over the constant stream of traffic along Anna Salai and the metro lights flickering nearby. One year since launch, the space feels settled into its stride.
We start with the Zaffrani mutton shorba, warm and comforting. It drinks almost like a rasam, light yet layered, with succulent morsels of mutton and flecks of parsley swimming through. The saffron hums softly in the background, never overpowering, just enough to perfume each spoonful.
The starters arrive in quick succession. The burrata chaat is easily the most unexpected. Creamy burrata meets crisp lotus root papdi, tomato relish and tamarind jam. It should not work, but it does. The cool cheese offsets the sweet tang, and the crunch keeps it grounded in familiar chaat territory.
Bhatinda chicken pops follow, bite sized and deeply marinated. There is a richness that lingers after frying, possibly from a finishing glaze that clings to the crust. Patti edamame samosas swap the usual casing for phyllo pastry, shatteringly crisp and filled with a mildly seasoned edamame mix. It is a lighter, more contemporary riff that still feels at home on the table.
From the tandoor, the soya chaap is well coated, its spice building gradually with each bite. The Patiala murgh tikka is more restrained, mellow in heat but generous in flavour, with tender pieces that disappear almost as soon as they land. Tandoori jinga arrives next, jumbo prawns nearly the size of a fist. Slightly overcooked, perhaps, but still impressive. The masala is balanced, not overly fiery, allowing the sweetness of the prawn to come through.
The Khubani harabara cutlets are surprisingly delicate, almost ghalouti like in texture, with a soft centre that hints at spinach, green peas and potato. Smooth, almost airy, they contrast nicely with the smokier plates.
For mains, the Paneer kofta lababdar pairs effortlessly with naan. Deep fried paneer dumplings sit in a velvety gravy that balances mild spice, tang and a gentle sweetness. The Up North nalli gosht is a highlight. The lamb shank is slow cooked until the meat slips off the bone, bathed in a creamy, deeply flavoured sauce that clings to every shred.
Butter chicken makes an appearance, familiar and comforting, before the Patiala murgh biryani takes centre stage. Served in a sealed pot, it arrives steaming. The rice is light and fluffy, the chicken plentiful, the aromas rising as the seal is broken at the table.
Dessert seals the deal. The nested gulab jamun is the peak, one thing that you should not miss out on. The Old Delhi kulfi, studded with chopped nuts, offers a cooler, quieter finish.
Dinner for two: Rs 3,000++. At Up North, Pullman, Anna Salai.
Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya
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