Tucked away almost covertly beside its sibling, Öz by Kebapçi at UB City, Riko feels like a culinary secret waiting to be uncovered. Step past its discreet entrance and the restaurant reveals itself in dramatic fashion — a space that expands far beyond expectation, much like opening the wardrobe door to Narnia. The lighting may err on the dim side, but the atmosphere is undeniably seductive, perfectly primed for a dining experience that promises to transport.
With its focus on Peruvian cuisine, Riko sets out to broaden horizons. The experience begins with a Chillies & Corn tasting platter — an education in Peruvian staples. Three chillies take centre stage: Ají Amarillo, Ají Panca and Rocoto, drawn from over 300 native varieties; alongside three celebrated corns — Choclo, Cancha and the strikingly purple Maíz Morado. This simple yet striking introduction is a clever primer for what follows.
First to arrive at the table was the Bomba de Choclo — a delicate corn custard bomb that bursts with flavour and charm. One portion was not enough; we could have happily devoured a dozen! Next came Queso Bombas, cheese and chicken empanadas that felt warmly familiar, particularly to those with a fondness for Mexican comfort food.
We then opted for the Sopa de Garbanzos y Edamame — a hearty spiced lentil soup that manages to feel both homely and exotic. Its soothing warmth gave way to the vibrancy of the Ceviche de Mango y Maracuyá — a sharp, refreshing medley of shrimp, passion fruit and mango that danced on the palate with fruity brightness.
For the mains, the Tamal de Cordero impressed with its earthy, comforting steamed corn dough enveloping tender lamb, while the Arroz Bomba del Mar — seabass bomba rice infused with saffron — offered a more delicate, luxurious depth. By this stage we were quite replete, but anticipation carried us into dessert.
The finalé did not disappoint: a duo of Dulce Oscuro — a moist dark chocolate cake that leaned indulgent without heaviness — and Cachapa con Miel, a sweet corn pancake drizzled with honey. The latter in particular charmed with its gentle sweetness and we unashamedly scraped our plates clean.
Riko succeeds in delivering a distinctive dining journey that celebrates the vibrancy of Peruvian flavours, with enough familiar notes to keep comfort intact. Stylish, spirited and satisfying — it’s a little slice of South America in Bengaluru worth discovering.
Meal for two: INR 2,200 onwards. At UB City.
Email: romal@newindianexpress.com
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