Last week, Bengaluru witnessed a rare culinary moment as Haoma — Bangkok’s Michelin-starred, Green-starred restaurant, made its India debut with an exclusive two-night pop-up at Zarf, Sheraton Grand Bengaluru Whitefield Hotel & Convention Center.
At the helm was chef Deepanker Khosla, the youngest Indian chef to receive a Michelin Star and the visionary behind Haoma’s Neo-Indian identity and globally acclaimed sustainability practices.
With accolades including the Champions of Change Award by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Deepanker brought not just a menu, but a philosophy — one that offered Bengaluru diners a thoughtful, flavour-forward experience from one of Asia’s most progressive kitchens. In an exclusive interview, the chef talks about why sustainability is important, why Bengaluru was chosen as the destination for their first-ever pop-up in India and lots more…
What does ‘we grow what we cook, we cook what we love’ mean to you personally?
It’s the essence of Haoma. For me, it means food isn’t just something bought and served — it’s nurtured. When I plant a seed, care for it and see it flourish, that same energy carries into the dish. Cooking becomes an act of love, rooted in responsibility to the land and to the people who eat with us.
Why is sustainability so important to you as a chef?
Chefs today aren’t just feeding people — we’re shaping how the planet eats. Food has a direct impact on climate, communities and culture. If I don’t act responsibly now, I’m leaving behind a broken food system for the next generation. Sustainability is not a trend; it’s survival.
What steps do you take to make Haoma more eco-friendly?
We grow much of our own produce in our urban farm and aquaponics system, harvest rainwater, compost all organic waste and even use fish waste to fertilise our plants. Our seafood comes from local, small-scale fishermen and our meats are raised humanely. Every choice — from seed to plating — is designed to leave the lightest footprint possible.
Why did you choose Bengaluru for your first pop-up in India?
Bengaluru is a city that’s progressive, curious and deeply connected to both tradition and innovation — much like Haoma. It’s also close to my roots, so bringing Haoma there felt like bringing my journey full circle: showing how neo-Indian cuisine born in Bangkok connects back to India in a meaningful way.
Which dish on the menu were you most excited for and why?
I’m especially proud of Aamras, Chaas Aur Caviar. It takes something as humble as mango pulp and buttermilk — staples from my childhood in Rajasthan — and elevates them with luxurious touches like caviar. It’s playful, deeply personal and a perfect representation of what neo-Indian cuisine is about: honoring tradition while creating something entirely new.
What does ‘Neo-Indian’ mean when it comes to your food?
It means going beyond the clichés of Indian cuisine. I explore pre-colonial recipes, regional techniques and indigenous ingredients, then reinterpret them with modern culinary methods and local Thai produce. It’s Indian at heart, but global in expression.
How do you balance traditional flavours with new techniques?
By respecting the memory of a dish while allowing creativity to breathe. The flavour profiles — spices, smoke, fermentation — remain rooted in tradition, but the presentation, textures and techniques are contemporary. It’s like speaking an ancient language with a modern accent.
How did it feel to win the Michelin Green Star and the Champions of Change Award?
It was humbling and empowering. These awards aren’t just for me — they’re for every farmer, fisherman and team member who believed in this vision of a better food system. To be recognised on the world stage validated the idea that luxury and responsibility can go hand in hand.
What’s your favourite comfort food when you’re not working?
Dal, rice and pickle. Simple, soulful and grounding. No matter where I travel or what I cook, that plate instantly reminds me of home.
Email: alwin@newindianexpress.com
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