The sentiment “chefs who cook with heart make even the simplest plate unforgettable” defines A Taste of France, the three-night culinary showcase happening this weekend in Puducherry, featuring French chef Mathias Vila. It is his first visit to India and his first time bringing more than 25 years of Michelin-star and Gault-Millau-shaped training to an Indian table.
“My evolution began with learning the basics, but also sharing cooking with my mother and father. Then it evolves every day with encounters with other chefs and other cultures,” he says. Those encounters echo through the menu he brings to the pop-up.
Across Bavaria, Lyon, the Côte d’Azur and his current home in Bordeaux, the flavours that linger in his memory show up in ways he does not always register. “Bavaria is discipline. The French Riviera is the pleasure of Mediterranean cuisine, sunshine on a plate. Lyon is the foundation of high-quality regional cuisine,” he says. “And finally, Bordeaux, where I live, and where I have a blast using all the talents I have learned.”
For someone with such a storied European background, his food philosophy remains grounded. When asked which detail makes the biggest difference to a dish, he does not hesitate. “Sauces are very important. Mastering them takes a lot of time. Also, vegetable cutting techniques, such as Scandinavian cuts, are essential.” It is the kind of craft diners rarely notice and the kind that makes a Michelin level kitchen what it is.
The seven-course tasting menu is available in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian formats. It begins with hors d’oeuvres and delicate soups reimagined with modern finesse. The mains are where Chef Mathias’ signature appears most vividly. “My signature dish is undoubtedly the sea bass poached in ghee,” he shares. It is an example of how easily he adapts to locale while holding onto the pillars of French cooking.
Not every pairing will be familiar to Indian diners. The cocoa tartlet with braised onions, porcini, and truffle is one such outlier. “The tartlet is, indeed, a surprising starter, but the combination of ingredients works perfectly together,” he says.
Asked about what he carries forward from his decades in Michelin-style environments, he replies, “Self-discipline for the pleasure of others.” Precision remains the core of his craft.
His advice to young Indian chefs echoes the ethos that shaped him. “A passion for rigour, patience with his team to ensure they follow along, and the pleasure of seeking new ideas.” The kind of ideas that sharpen over decades, the kind that reward those who pay attention to detail, the kind that Pondicherry diners will get to witness up close this November.
Meal per person: ₹3,535. From November 27 to 29. At The Promenade, Puducherry.
Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya
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