Of the two Telugu states, the lush coastline of Godavari often seems to be overlooked for its culinary prowess. The region is a treasure trove holding the secrets to numerous recipes featuring rich local produce, set in the lush greenery of coconut trees and paddy fields, offering not just a treat for the palate, but for all the senses.
This week, we were overjoyed to step into TuGo (short for Turpu Godavari, or East Godavari) to feast on the various dishes from the region. We found ourselves in a divine haven, with the façade resembling temple walls. Further indoors, colourful murals celebrat the nativity of the region. Even the blinds had beautiful illustrations of simple village life.
Settling under a brass pendant lamp that amplified the temple-like atmosphere, we started our meal with a wholesome bowl of Kodi miriyala charu, a zingy pepper and tomato based soup with chicken mince that was sure to drive away any signs of a sore throat.
The Kara kara kodi, a crispy chicken appetiser garnished with fried curry leaves and cashews was a lovely dish to begin our meal with. The Stuffed mushrooms, with a delicious paneer-based filling would be our recommendation from the vegetarian small plates. For the seafood lovers, the Vanjaram fish fry, served with a whole fish was a lovely pick.
The mains had a host of options to pick from; we tried the Raju gari kodi kura with chitti gaare — a staple breakfast option on festive days in Telugu households. The rich, spice laden chicken curry tasted even better with freshly fried, crisp puris.
Another combo option was the Muddapappu avakaya annam with Pachi pulusu. The hearty dal and rice based dish smeared in ghee and mango pickle was an experience of a lifetime in every bite. A sweet and smokey Pacchi pulusu flavoured with charred egg plant, made the humble everyday dish of the heartland wholesome.
The restaurant has a whopping 23-dish menu just for pulavs. You could also try the thali here that comes with multiple addon options featuring everything from stuffed crabs to Fish pulusu.
While service was slightly spotty, the dessert more than made up for our wait. The Kobbari munju — a coconut water based dessert mimicked the texture of ice apples. The refreshing dessert topped with chopped coconut flesh marked the highlight of our meal. We learnt that the dish is prepared by the owner of the establishment, who we spotted chatting with several diners, giving us a glimpse into the famed hospitality of Godavari.
Rs 1,200 for two. At Jubilee Hills.