It is no secret that in a country like ours, the dialect, customs and cuisine change every few hundred kilometers. This harbours the opportunity for new and improved versions of the same, familiar dishes in ways we have never imagined before.
This week, we checked out a new spot in town that’s introducing the city to a new kind of hyperlocal cuisine from the land of Rayalaseema. Penam - Village Style Dosa is rustic, yet contemporary with an outdoor dining section completing the space.
We took a look at the menu to find some staple South Indian breakfast options. The difference? All the recipes, we are told, are from the heartland of Anantapur, where home-style dosas made on cast iron pans (or penam, where the place borrows its name from) are a regular sight in every street corner, and in demand throughout the day.
We tried the Ghee podi idli first, served with a thick peanut chutney and Erra karam - a delightfully pungent and zingy hand-pound garlic chilli paste that is a staple in Rayalaseema’s households.
Next, we tried the Penam erra karam palyam dosa. The dosa wasn’t too fermented, like the Andhra pullattu. Balance is key to this one, with a deep tangy aftertaste, coupled with the garlic-filled bites of Erra karam and a perfect crisp to softness ratio.
A special note needs to be made about the peanut chutney that wasn’t watered down in the least bit. We learnt that each dosa is made on individual pans, true to how the original variant in Anantapur is made, unlike on a common slab that is typically spotted in the city.
A must try at the place are the Ghee gunta ponganaalu, laden with the rich, nutty aroma of ghee combined with a crisp crust that was a hit with every bite. And while the Erra karam may prove challenging if one doesn’t have a palate for spice, the Nannari served in quirky ‘quarter’ bottles can surely help dial down the heat.
Rs 500 for two.
At Jubilee Hills.
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