If city life is making you claustrophobic, then this place we visited recently is a perfect getaway to rejuvenate. A smooth two-hour drive away from the Biju Patnaik airport in Bhubaneshwar brought us to Ganjam, where we stayed at the incredibly exotic Rambha Palace, which dates back to the 18th century. What was once in ruins is a luxe property now spread over five acres.
After being welcomed with aarti thali and drinks, we headed straight to the dining hall boasting a long, marble-top wooden table and majestic chandeliers. Chef Gaurav Juyal had rustled up a comforting meal replete with Odia pakhala bhaat (a soaked, fermented rice dish, in which curd and tadka are added before serving) with vegetarian and non-vegetarian curries, fried delicacies, and stir fries. We ended our meal with a slice of the traditional and delectable local dessert, Chhena poda, which loosely translates to burnt cheese.
Instead of a much-desired siesta, we chose to explore the property and soak in as much lush greenery and fresh air as possible. The heritage property on the picturesque banks of Chilika Lake had once hosted the Utkal Conference, a landmark moment in Odisha’s journey towards statehood.
A six-year restoration project, spearheaded by acclaimed Sri Lankan architect Channa Daswatte, a protégé of Geoffrey Bawa, resulted in a masterfully blended classical European architectural elements like Roman arches and Greek Doric columns with native Odia aesthetics, including lotus-petal capitals and traditional floral motifs. Local artisans from the Sundarbans were instrumental in reviving the palace’s grandeur, using authentic materials and age-old craftsmanship.
What remains unmissable are the 18th-century furniture, Venetian chandeliers, antique Persian carpets, original terrazzo flooring, and the Dokra artefacts stored very carefully in showcases. You also cannot ignore the billiard table, bought from an antique store, dating back to about 200 years.
Now comes the star of the palace, the fresco, Utkala (utkala means Odisha in Odia). Done by a young, self-taught artist Guru Vinayak Singh, the painting is a visual epic that traces Odisha’s journey through mythology, the Mahabharata, and the Kalinga War. The result of 7,000 hours of meticulous labour — 13 hours a day — and hundreds of calls with historians overseas, Utkala was shaped by research, rigour, and the quiet devotion it takes to paint five millennia into stillness.
After an engaging exploration of the artwork, we moved straight to the lawn overlooking two fountains for a high tea. After finishing an elaborate high tea with Kadak masala chai, bite-sized sandwiches, cookies, fritters, cakes, and more, while watching the sun taking its own sweet time to set, it was time for a massage. For us, a staycation is incomplete without a massage or spa. After a thorough foot massage and a rejuvenating bath, we finally got some time to enjoy our room a bit, before we headed out again for dinner.
We stayed in a suite on the ground floor of the original palace block, reflecting the regal charm of the era with authentic vintage Odia handicrafts. Each suite boasts a king-size four-poster bed with crested linen, offering the perfect blend of luxury and comfort.
The lavish spread for dinner took us by surprise. We did not have an idea that we would be served a Pan-Asian meal. From dim sums to sushi, veg/non-veg appetisers to stir-fried tofu, Udon noodles, and sticky rice with Thai green curry, the dishes just kept coming before we wrapped up the dinner with our favourite Thai dessert, Tub tim grob.
Set beside Asia’s largest brackish lagoon, Rambha Palace is also a sanctuary for birdwatchers, especially during winter migrations when flamingos, demoiselle cranes, and glossy ibises descend on the region. Unfortunately, we missed it this time, as we had to check out early the next morning for our flight home.
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