In the light of the ongoing Bihar elections, we travel to the state and discover a an oft-ignored side of it’s culinary offerings. Litti-chokha and Champaran mutton have been Bihar’s culinary ambassadors, but the state has lots more to offer. Be it chiniya kela (small banana) from Hajipur or Shahi litchi from Muzaffarpur, mangoes like zardalu from Bhagalpur or malda from Bhojpur, sweetmeats like balushahi from Runi-Saidpur, pedas from Khagaria, khaja (flaky deep-fried pastry) from Silao or tilkut (sesame jaggery discs), anarsa (rice jaggery fried sweet) and kesaria peda from Gaya; each region has its own specialties. The state’s seven GI tagged food items include magahi paan and the pepper-shaped Marcha rice.
Bihar sees extreme weather – scorching summers with hot ‘loo’ or dry dusty winds blowing across the Indo-Gangetic plains, winters characterised by sheetlahri (cold waves) and heavy monsoons with Kosi’s dramatic descent from Tibet/ Nepal making Bihar the most flood-prone state. One wonderfood that defies climatic severity is sattu (roasted Bengal gram flour).
Consumed in summer as a sweetened beverage with water and sugar or a salty drink with chopped onion and lime to prevent heat stroke, sattu also serves as a savoury filling, rolled into parathas or stuffed into littis that keep you warm in winter. Roasted on a coal fire and dunked in ghee, it is served with chokha, a smoky brinjal mash with onion, tomato, chilli, lime and mustard oil.
Fox nut tales
Bihar accounts for nearly 90 percent of the world’s makhana or fox nut production, mainly Darbhanga, Madhubani, Sitamarhi, Katihar, Purnea, Kishanganj, Araria, Saharsa and Supaul. Cultivation of makhana as a cash crop is so important, there’s a Makhana Research Centre in Darbhanga under the Indian Council of Agricultural Research. Mithila’s makhana was accorded a GI tag in 2021.
A popular local saying celebrates the region’s cultural icons: “Pug pug pokhar maachh makhaan, madhur boli muski mukh paan, ee theek Mithilaak pehchan” (At every step, a pond, fish and foxnuts, sweet speech, a smile, a mouthful of paan, this is Mithila’s true identity).
Sweet tooth
Mithila’s love for chuda-dahi (beaten rice and curd), fish and mutton curry, is legendary. In Darbhanga, the best place for mutton is Suraj Meat House in Gudri Bazaar, where it is sold by weight (100 rupees for 100 g, minus the gravy) and served with chapati and Katarni rice. Grown mostly in Bhagalpur and Banka districts, the special scented short-grain GI-tag rice is in heavy demand for the chuda prepared from it!
While in Darbhanga, grab a lassi at Hum Lassi Yahin Peete Hain or right across at Dhamaka Lassi. The thick lassi comes topped with cashew, raisins, khoa (reduced milk) and malai (cream). Champaran mutton is to Patna what Ambur biryani is to Bengaluru; every other shop sells it. Head to the Old Champaran Meat House opposite Taramandal.
Carnivore cravings
Try mutton curry at Mirchu Hotel, Bihari kebabs at Mahngu Hotel, kachoris at Nandu Lal Kachoriwale, laddus at Maner Sweets, litti-chokha at Chourasiya Ji Ki Purani Litti Dukaan near the station and A1 Chandrakala just below it. Gaya’s kesaria pedas are steeped in history. Traditionally offered as bhog (sacred offering) at Vishnupad temple, the sweet also played a part in the 1857 Indian war of Independence! A British soldier stationed in Gaya took a bite of the peda at a local sweetshop and returned the partly-eaten jootha (impure) portion back on the platter; a big cultural no-no in the sacred town.
An altercation ensued and the infuriated shop owner Badho Sav attacked the troops, killing two British soldiers. Five Gaya residents were sentenced to Kala Pani, the infamous Cellular Jail in the Andamans. On Queen Victoria’s birthday, the prisoners were asked if they had any special wish. A defiant Sav prepared his special kesaria pedas to be sent to the queen! Impressed by its delicious taste, the queen pardoned them. On returning to Gaya, they resumed their struggle against the British. Today, Badho Sav’s seventh generation continues the peda making tradition.
Bhojpuri beats
Thanks to Bihari migration as indentured labour, staples like dalpuri and achaar assimilated into faraway nations like Guyana, Trinidad and Tobago and Mauritius as ‘dholl puri’ and ‘achard’ and Bhojpuri beats blended with Caribbean calypso to create Chutney music. Whether it’s wholesome dal pitha (lentil-filled steamed rice dumplings), madua (ragi) roti with saag (greens) or sweet launglata and soft malpuas, the Bihari palate is an amalgam of tantalising flavours.
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