Tucked away in a corner of Wayanad is a small grocery shop, the kind that seems to carry a little bit of everything —plastic toys, packets of snacks, maybe a couple of toothpastes. Chako, the man who runs it, steps into his house and returns with the ingredients to make a Nannari sherbet. There’s a lively conversation, full of smiles and laughter, though we can’t understand the words. Yet, the warmth of the moment is unmistakable. It’s the same feeling we noticed in everyone we met here.
We learn that only 25 per cent of Wayanad is habitable; the rest — 75 per cent — is a dense, vibrant forest. Standing amidst it, you feel a reverence for the life that thrives here. There’s respect for nature that seems to guide the way people live, and that kindness and care naturally shine through.
This was only a glimpse of our journey in Wayanad. Three hours from Kozhikode, you feel transported to a paradise where nature and humanity coexist. Landing at the airport in the evening, zooming through the roads, we arrived at our first property, Sterling Wayanad. Set on the edge of the forest, it consists of individual villas graced by creeping vines and flowers. Soft warm lights lit the cobblestone path and in the misty late night air, it almost seemed magical. Making our way to our room, we passed the activities centre offering indoor games, ziplining, pottery and more. Our abode was a cosy cottage, adorned with flowers and a balcony which overlooked a pond. After a hearty meal of chicken gravy and roti, we sank into the bed for a good night’s rest, ready to take on the activities scheduled for the next day.
At 6 am, we headed to the Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary with our activities director, Dileep, to catch a glimpse of the local wildlife. Right off the bat, we spotted the sanctuary’s elephants, including a majestic tusker. What followed was a pack of wild dogs — locally called dolle. Our guide told us that when the dolle travel in a pack, it’s a behavioural sign that they’re hunting. The rest of our journey included sightings of peacocks and deers, and we ended the trip with a visit to their local museum, which showcases the region’s vegetation and tribal arts.
Once back at the property, we had breakfast at the multi-cuisine restaurant, Machan — a buffet spread of Indian, continental, and cereal options. A peaceful meal overlooking the forest, and it was time to freshen up.
Our obvious choice for this was to visit the Subuthi Spa. Located beside the pool, the space was filled with soothing incense. We looked through their massage menu and chose the Abhyanga, a traditional therapy. The experience involved a gentle 60-minute massage followed by a 15-minute sauna. Those 75 minutes felt like releasing every tense muscle in your body. We ended our experience with a warm herbal concoction made with turmeric, the perfect healing touch.
To get to know any place, you must taste its food. So, we headed to the property’s fine dining restaurant, The Malabar, which focuses on regional cuisine. We were recommended the Koonthal nirachathu, a stuffed squid dish rich with the flavours of Malabar. Another highlight was the Bamboo biryani, a Kerala-style biryani layered with mild spices and aromatic herbs.
We learned about the diverse influences on Wayanad’s food — from Arab traders to the local Christian communities — and how each has contributed to its distinct culinary identity. We ended with a delicate Ilaneer pudding and a hot cup of Sulaimani tea.
Sometime late evening, we came across a singing event and learned that every night, the resort hosts guest activities — from bonfires to karaoke and games.
Another early morning, we geared up for a nature walk with Dileep. We set off to soak in the beauty of Wayanad— passing early morning milkmen, spotting cinnamon and herb trees, and making our way to the paddy fields from which the town takes its name. Along the way, we plucked guavas with a local family, helped another draw water from their well, and met an elderly chechi, Parvati, who proudly introduced us to her animals. With each encounter, we felt the spirit of the place grow stronger. Our journey ended in the paddy fields, muddy, wet, and full of laughter, before we waded through a coffee plantation on our way back. Tired but content, this is when we stopped at Chako’s little shop, and his Nannari sherbet revived us instantly.
After breakfast, we left Sterling Wayanad to visit our second property, Sterling Lonatano Waterfront, about 30 minutes away. Overlooking the Karapuzha backwaters, this stay offered a beautiful contrast to the forest as our room opened out to serene waters. A modern looking space, the property was sleek with gray and brown accents, carrying a hint of the woods in its design.
After a quick meal, we set out to visit the Edakkal Caves, which feature petroglyphs believed to date back at least 6,000 BCE. Its a steep climb, although surrounded by vast green spaces, the way up makes it difficult to soak it all in. But once you lay your eyes upon the petroglyphs, the climb becomes worth it. The carvings felt like whispers from an ancient time, a reminder of how long this land has been shared and shaped by humanity. On our way back, we stopped at Nellarachal View Point, which offers a panoramic view of the dam. As the sun glimmered on the waters, our guide, Nideesh, introduced us to the Japanese philosophy of Shinrin Yoku — forest bathing, a meditative practice that connects all five senses to nature. Surrounded by mountains, with sunlight dancing on the water, and an occasional glimpse of a local fisherman or two, it felt like the truest expression of ‘oneness’. In moments like this when your brain goes quiet and it feels like the world has come to a halt, as you look towards the setting sun, life starts making a little more sense again.
With our hearts at ease, we returned to the property for a quiet candlelight dinner set up by the hotel. Three courses — chicken salad, dal makhani, and payasam — were served at the yoga deck, accompanied by the gentle hum of insects and the rustle of trees. With the cool lake breeze on our skin, it was the perfect end to the day.
On our last day in Wayanad, we visited the Karapuzha Dam, which offers several activities for visitors to enjoy the beauty of the waters. We, of course, chose the zipline.
On our way back, we stopped at a small shed producing eucalyptus oil. It was a sight that felt so mundane yet carried a sense of life and oh, the smell of the oil! After a quick lunch at The Tamarind, the property’s restaurant overlooking the lake and pool, we headed to Sulthan Bathery, the main market. A deep dive into the spices, fridge magnets and a gorgeous sunset later, we called it a day, ready to travel home the next morning.
To relax from the physically extensive days we visited the spa the next morning. Opting for the full body Swedish massage, this session made us forget about all the climbs we’d enagaged in the past two days. With our bodies relaxed, minds content and spice packed bags, we headed home.
From the kindness of its people to the raw beauty of its forests and hills, Wayanad is a place that hums with life. You leave with your body rested, your heart full, and a promise to return when the hills call your name again.
Average price at Sterling Wayanad starts at Rs 9,000 and Sterling Lontano Waterfront at Rs 12,000.
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