Kalamkari: The ancient art of storytelling in stitches and strokes

Kalamkari is one of India’s oldest and most treasured forms of hand-painted and block-printed textile art, dating back over 3,000 years. The term ‘Kalamkari’ is derived from the Persian words kalam (pen) and kari (craftsmanship), meaning ‘drawing with a pen.’ This intricate art form flourished under the patronage of the Golconda Sultanate and later the Mughals, primarily in the regions of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. Traditionally used to depict scenes from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata, Kalamkari served as a visual storytelling medium for temple cloths, scrolls, and rituals.

What sets Kalamkari apart is its deep-rooted connection to nature—not just in its motifs, but also in the materials and processes used. The entire craft is based on a painstakingly detailed, eco-friendly method involving natural dyes and organic treatment of the fabric. No synthetic colours or chemicals are used in authentic Kalamkari.

The role of natural colours and fabric treatment

The cloth, usually cotton, undergoes an elaborate pre-treatment process before the artwork begins. It is first washed to remove starch and then soaked in a solution of cow dung and bleach to make the fabric soft and off-white—an ideal base for absorbing natural dyes. Once dried, the fabric is treated with myrobalan, a natural mordant derived from the kadukkai fruit, which helps fix the dyes and enhances their richness.

Artists use natural sources for colours: black is made from jaggery and iron filings, red from alum and tamarind seed, and yellow from pomegranate peels. Indigo is used for blue, while green is obtained by mixing indigo and yellow. The pen, traditionally made from bamboo or date palm sticks with a bundle of fine hair at the tip, is used to outline and fill in the designs.

The entire process can take several weeks, depending on the complexity of the design. Each piece is washed and sun-dried multiple times to ensure that the colours set firmly and the fabric retains its durability. Today, Kalamkari continues to evolve, finding its place not only in traditional attire but also in contemporary fashion and home décor—still telling stories, one line at a time.